Influence of Wave Shape on Sediment Transport in Coastal Regions

Abstract

Abstract The paper deals with the influence of the wave shape, represented by water surface elevations and wave-induced nearbed velocities, on sediment transport under joint wave-current impact. The focus is on the theoretical description of vertically asymmetric wave motion and the effects of wave asymmetry on net sediment transport rates during interaction of coastal steady currents, namely wave-driven currents, with wave-induced unsteady free stream velocities. The cross-shore sediment transport is shown to depend on wave asymmetry not only quantitatively (in terms of rate), but also qualitatively (in terms of direction). Within longshore lithodynamics, wave asymmetry appears to have a significant effect on the net sediment transport rate.