Sustainable solution of sewing thread attributes on seam pucker

Abstract

Bending rigidity magnitude of sewing thread provides a sustainable solution on the appearance of single needle lock stitched lightweight woven fabrics which are prone to pucker. Comparison of sewing thread bending rigidity with thread count, thread diameter, thread cyclic recovery and their resultant implication in the single lock stitched assemblies were given less consideration for the prediction and reduction of seam pucker severity. The resultant implication of physical and mechanical properties of sewing thread with rising trend of static thread tension magnitude at lock stitched sewing machine has significant impact on lightweight lock stitched fabric assemblies to predict and elude seam pucker. The present research is focused to investigate impact of the thread bending rigidity on count, diameter and cyclic recovery at 4th cycle of four cores spun sewing threads. The study concluded that sewing thread bending rigidity has high coefficient of determination of sewing thread; diameter (R2 =0.81), count (R2 =0.73) and cyclic recovery (R2 =0.77). Single needle 400 lock stitched samples of two cores spun sewing threads (t2 and t4) were prepared with ten plain weave lightweight woven fabric samples prone to pucker at four different static needle thread tensions. It is also established that combined effect of sewing thread static tension and cyclic recovery at sewing machine has significant coefficient of determination (R2>0.85 at low static thread tension and R2>0.73 at very high static thread tension) to predict and elude seam pucker severity. Research finding provides a sustainable solution to select the fine count sewing thread attuned with lightweight woven fabrics prone to pucker severity. It was observed that the Fine count sewing thread has lowest bending rigidity and 4th cyclic recovery magnitudes (R2 close to 1) to reduce or predict pucker severity for prone to pucker plain weave lightweight woven fabrics at minimum static thread tension (25gf ) on single needle lock stitched sewing machine (R2>0.81).