Changing Style in Style-changing Industries: The Role of Critics as Gatekeepers in High-end Fashion

4区 管理学 Q3 Economics, Econometrics and Finance
Paola Cillo, Joseph C. Nunes, Emanuela Prandelli, I. Scopelliti
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Abstract

Mastering aesthetics is a precious source of competitive advantage in creative industries. In fashion, innovation is reflected by how and how much styles change. Elite designers claim to be the only endogenous force shaping fashion innovation season by season. Yet, each season, fashion critics vet the new collections these designers introduce, assessing what is original as opposed to reworked and uninspired, in this way playing a fundamental role as gatekeepers in setting taste within the industry. In this research, we document how stylistic innovation, vis-a-vis the styles premier design houses introduced each season, is impacted, among the others, by the specific exogenous force of critics' assessments of designers' past work. Our data, which include 61 measures detailing the styles introduced by 38 prestigious Italian and French design houses over a nine-year period, suggest designers move further away from styles reviewed less favourably while adhering more closely to styles reviewed more positively. Additionally, the styles a designer introduces are shown to depend on critical assessments of competing designers' styles, revealing how design houses attend to each other's work. This work documents the strong correlation between style dynamics and critics' feedback. It also has important implications for any company trying to find a balance between independence and conformity in setting its own unique positioning into the market.
时尚行业中不断变化的风格:评论家在高端时尚中的守门人角色
掌握美学是创意产业竞争优势的宝贵来源。在时尚界,创新体现在风格变化的方式和程度上。精英设计师声称自己是一季又一季塑造时尚创新的唯一内生力量。然而,每一季,时尚评论家都会审查这些设计师推出的新系列,评估哪些是原创的,哪些是重新设计的,哪些是缺乏灵感的,从而在确立行业品味方面发挥着看门人的基本作用。在这项研究中,我们记录了风格创新,相对于每季推出的主要设计公司,是如何受到评论家对设计师过去工作的评估这一特定外生力量的影响的。我们的数据包括61项指标,详细列出了38家意大利和法国著名设计公司在9年时间里推出的风格。数据表明,设计师们会进一步远离那些评价不佳的风格,而更密切地关注那些评价较好的风格。此外,设计师介绍的风格取决于对竞争设计师风格的批判性评估,揭示了设计公司如何关注彼此的工作。这项工作证明了风格动态和评论家反馈之间的强烈相关性。对于任何试图在独立和从众之间找到平衡的公司来说,它也具有重要的意义,因为它在市场上设定了自己独特的定位。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
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期刊介绍: Advances in Strategic Management is dedicated to communicating innovative, new research that advances theory and practice in Strategic Management. The domain of the series encompasses, but is not limited to, corporate and business unit strategy, strategic organization and process, alliances and networks, and competitive dynamics. The series is committed to expanding the scope of Strategic Management theory and analysis and enriching practice by: -Encouraging multitheoretical approaches that span multiple social science disciplines -Welcoming papers using a diversity of innovative research methods -Creating focused volumes that explore in depth promising new research directions, consolidate research streams, and address significant current theoretical and practical problems.
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