An Academic Study of Clothing Ethnoculture and Modern Clothes Production: Interaction Practices in Ukraine

Q3 Arts and Humanities
Maryna Oliynyk
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引用次数: 1

Abstract

As a result of globalization processes, the lives of average people are nowadays filled with uniform products. In Ukraine, contemporary clothing featuring national markers stands out from among the wide range of cultural and artistic trends. Ukrainian academics are currently studying the specific features of the diffusion of traditional clothing into everyday urban life. A knowledge of the historical path of the penetration, adaptation, and development of traditional Ukrainian clothing within the urban cultural system is necessary for an understanding of its modern transformation processes. An examination of the theoretical model of the diffusion and development of nationally marked clothing from 1861 to 2020 reveals that, in the context of urbanized culture, the spread of Ukrainian clothing is subject to five factors: social and economic, religious and ritual, identification (patriotic), cultural and artistic, and design and production. Within each subperiod, namely 1861–1920, 1921–1990, and 1991–2020, these factors have influenced clothing culture to varying extents, and their content is transformed in accordance with the historical circumstances. In addition to the publication of the above developments in scientific journals, considerable efforts to popularize them are also being made. Several thematic lectures have been given on the influence of the above-mentioned driving forces at different historical stages, accompanied by the multimedia presentation of prominent members of the Ukrainian intelligentsia posing in Ukrainian attire. The ZETA Atelier clothing manufacturing team produces collars embroidered with Ukrainian folk motifs, which became fashionable among Ukrainian intellectuals in the early 20th century. Collaboration based on the educational platform of the clothing brand Zerno has given rise to the idea of producing a line of stockinette T-shirts with prints of historical photographs of the Ukrainian cultural figures previously featured during lectures and presentations. The aim is to shape a contemporary urban culture of nationally marked clothing via the introduction of national images into consumer practices.
服装民族文化与现代服装生产的学术研究——在乌克兰的互动实践
由于全球化进程,如今普通人的生活充满了统一的产品。在乌克兰,以国家标志为特色的现代服装在广泛的文化和艺术潮流中脱颖而出。乌克兰学者目前正在研究传统服装融入城市日常生活的具体特征。了解乌克兰传统服装在城市文化体系中渗透、适应和发展的历史路径,对于理解其现代转型过程是必要的。对1861年至2020年国家标志服装传播和发展的理论模型的研究表明,在城市化文化的背景下,乌克兰服装的传播受到五个因素的影响:社会和经济、宗教和仪式、认同(爱国)、文化和艺术以及设计和生产。在1861–1920年、1921–1990年和1991–2020年的每个亚周期内,这些因素都对服装文化产生了不同程度的影响,其内容也随着历史环境的变化而变化。除了在科学期刊上发表上述进展外,还在大力推广这些进展。已经就上述驱动力在不同历史阶段的影响举办了几次专题讲座,同时还以多媒体形式介绍了身着乌克兰服装的乌克兰知识界知名人士。ZETA工作室的服装制造团队生产绣有乌克兰民间图案的衣领,这种图案在20世纪初在乌克兰知识分子中流行起来。基于服装品牌Zerno的教育平台进行的合作产生了生产一系列stockinette T恤的想法,这些T恤印有乌克兰文化人物的历史照片,这些照片曾在讲座和演讲中出现过。其目的是通过将民族形象引入消费者实践,塑造具有民族特色服装的当代城市文化。
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来源期刊
Acta Ethnographica Hungarica
Acta Ethnographica Hungarica Arts and Humanities-Music
CiteScore
0.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
37
期刊介绍: This journal publishes contributions describing recent scientific advances in the field of ethnography, folklore, and cultural and social anthropology. Emphasis is laid on subjects related to Hungarian ethnography and folklore as well as on works presenting Hungarian folklore in the context of Eastern European and Eurasian cultures. Publishes book reviews and advertisements.
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