Technological Innovations of French Jacquard Silk Weaving in the 19th Century

Jiali Lu, F. Zhao, Liqing Zhang
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Abstract

The emergence of the jacquard loom in the early 19th century was one of the most important mechanical inventions among the technological innovations of the French silk weaving industry. Since then, France continuously optimized and improve jacquard loom, resulting in many technological changes. Based on the technical principle of different types of jacquard looms in France in the 19th century, and by referring to literature and conducting field visits to France and other places, our study systematically analyzed and summarized the technological changes of jacquard in French silk weaving in the 19th century. These changes mainly included the modification of crochet shape, direction and thickness of placement, the change of the shape and material of pattern card, the size and arrangement of its holes, and the addition of harness cord and shaft monture, so as to promote the continuous, rapid and steady progress of the whole silk weaving industry.
19世纪法国提花丝绸织造的技术创新
19世纪初提花织机的出现是法国丝绸织造工业技术创新中最重要的机械发明之一。此后,法国不断对提花织机进行优化和改进,产生了许多技术变革。本研究以19世纪法国不同类型提花织机的技术原理为基础,通过查阅文献和实地考察法国等地,系统地分析和总结了19世纪法国丝绸织造中提花的技术变化。这些变化主要包括对钩针形状、布放方向、厚度的修改,花样卡的形状、材质、孔的大小和排列方式的改变,以及线绳和轴轴的增加,从而促进了整个丝织工业的持续、快速、稳定的发展。
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