Shoreline displacement assessment on the Pacific Coast of Colombia using numerical simulations, remote sensing and machine learning in a data-limited environment

IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
Journal of Marine Systems Pub Date : 2025-12-01 Epub Date: 2025-10-16 DOI:10.1016/j.jmarsys.2025.104146
Andrés M. Enríquez-Hidalgo , Andrés Vargas-Luna , Marc Mestres , Jorge Escobar-Vargas , Manuel Espino Infantes , Andrés Torres
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Abstract

Understanding Shoreline Displacement (SLD) in data- limited coastal regions, is critical for risk-informed management. We evaluate an integrated workflow that couples wave-hydrodynamic modeling, tide-corrected CoastSat satellite shorelines, and machine learning (ML) to characterize SLD drivers in Tumaco Bay on Colombia's southern pacific coast. Using data from 2017 to 2018, various structured meshes and advection schemes are tested. A 100 m mesh with a cyclic advection scheme best reproduced mesotidal dynamics when forced with TPXO8 tidal model for boundary conditions and wind data provided by a meteorological station. Model performance evaluated against Waverys reanalysis and available observations showed good skill, supporting application where in situ data are sparse. Multidecadal (1993–2024) CoastSat shoreline positions for El Morro and El Bajito beaches indicate an overall accretional tendency but found erosion hotspots affecting densely settled and touristic sectors. Regional wave conditions feature significant wave height (Hs) of 0.3–1.1 m, peak wave period (Tp) of 4–18 s, and predominantly westward wave approach, Random Forest (RF) results identify sea level (SL) and mean wave propagation direction (Θm) as the leading contributors to observed SLD variability, whereas Hs and Tp are secondary under the area's moderate wave energy. The study demonstrates the need to monitor localized erosion despite net accretion and demonstrate that combining physics-based modeling, open satellite archives, and data-driven methods can yield policy-relevant coastal insights in data-scarce tropical estuarine environments.
在数据有限的环境下,利用数值模拟、遥感和机器学习对哥伦比亚太平洋沿岸的海岸线位移进行评估
了解数据有限的沿海地区的海岸线位移(SLD)对于风险知情管理至关重要。我们评估了一个集成的工作流程,结合波浪-流体动力学建模、潮汐校正的海岸卫星海岸线和机器学习(ML)来表征哥伦比亚南太平洋海岸图马科湾的SLD驱动程序。使用2017 - 2018年的数据,对各种结构化网格和平流方案进行了测试。在TPXO8潮汐模式的边界条件和气象站提供的风资料的强制作用下,一个带有循环平流方案的100米网格最好地再现了中潮动力学。根据Waverys的再分析和现有观测结果评估的模型性能显示出良好的技能,支持原位数据稀疏的应用。多年代际(1993-2024年),El Morro和El Bajito海滩的海岸线位置显示出总体的增加趋势,但发现侵蚀热点影响人口密集和旅游部门。区域波高(Hs)为0.3 ~ 1.1 m,波峰周期(Tp)为4 ~ 18 s,以西向波为主要特征,随机森林(RF)结果表明海平面(SL)和平均波传播方向(Θm)是观测到的SLD变化的主要因素,而Hs和Tp在该区域的中等波能下是次要的。该研究表明,尽管有净增生,但仍有必要监测局部侵蚀,并表明,将基于物理的建模、开放卫星档案和数据驱动的方法相结合,可以在数据稀缺的热带河口环境中产生与政策相关的沿海见解。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Journal of Marine Systems
Journal of Marine Systems 地学-地球科学综合
CiteScore
6.20
自引率
3.60%
发文量
81
审稿时长
6 months
期刊介绍: The Journal of Marine Systems provides a medium for interdisciplinary exchange between physical, chemical and biological oceanographers and marine geologists. The journal welcomes original research papers and review articles. Preference will be given to interdisciplinary approaches to marine systems.
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