{"title":"Ethnoracism & White palatability: The erasure of Black African gastronomies in the global media","authors":"Adwoa A. Fofie","doi":"10.1016/j.ijgfs.2025.101134","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The art of eating is political; food is political. Because food has linkages to a history, and identity, and is unique to your culture, it is a prime tool for othering. Every societal construct has White supremacy ingrained into it. Whiteness and White palatability have become the omniscient value barometer that determines and assigns worth. This article analyzes the representation of Black African gastronomies in the global media and emphasizes the complicity of the media in the calculated miscategorization of the cuisines to spotlight Whiteness. I show how Whiteness weaponizes food to further enact colonial violence and ethnoracial racism. I do this by analyzing the White hegemony of the culinary media; prestigious food lists; the concept of fine dining and restaurants at large; and the politics of spice and its enmeshed relationship with the Michelin Guide. To illustrate White palatability, I anatomize the Michelin guide as it is the most prestigious food list and argue that by excluding African chefs and African and non-Western cuisines from positions of prestige, they are purporting racism, being anti-black, and courting White palatability. I assess the forceful, mostly unneeded domination of Whiteness in the culinary ecosystem as it has been in other spaces for centuries and the innate desire to extirpate other cultures.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":48594,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science","volume":"40 ","pages":"Article 101134"},"PeriodicalIF":3.2000,"publicationDate":"2025-02-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science","FirstCategoryId":"97","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1878450X25000356","RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"农林科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"FOOD SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
The art of eating is political; food is political. Because food has linkages to a history, and identity, and is unique to your culture, it is a prime tool for othering. Every societal construct has White supremacy ingrained into it. Whiteness and White palatability have become the omniscient value barometer that determines and assigns worth. This article analyzes the representation of Black African gastronomies in the global media and emphasizes the complicity of the media in the calculated miscategorization of the cuisines to spotlight Whiteness. I show how Whiteness weaponizes food to further enact colonial violence and ethnoracial racism. I do this by analyzing the White hegemony of the culinary media; prestigious food lists; the concept of fine dining and restaurants at large; and the politics of spice and its enmeshed relationship with the Michelin Guide. To illustrate White palatability, I anatomize the Michelin guide as it is the most prestigious food list and argue that by excluding African chefs and African and non-Western cuisines from positions of prestige, they are purporting racism, being anti-black, and courting White palatability. I assess the forceful, mostly unneeded domination of Whiteness in the culinary ecosystem as it has been in other spaces for centuries and the innate desire to extirpate other cultures.
期刊介绍:
International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science is a peer-reviewed journal that explicitly focuses on the interface of food science and gastronomy. Articles focusing only on food science will not be considered. This journal equally encourages both scientists and chefs to publish original scientific papers, review articles and original culinary works. We seek articles with clear evidence of this interaction. From a scientific perspective, this publication aims to become the home for research from the whole community of food science and gastronomy.
IJGFS explores all aspects related to the growing field of the interaction of gastronomy and food science, in areas such as food chemistry, food technology and culinary techniques, food microbiology, genetics, sensory science, neuroscience, psychology, culinary concepts, culinary trends, and gastronomic experience (all the elements that contribute to the appreciation and enjoyment of the meal. Also relevant is research on science-based educational programs in gastronomy, anthropology, gastronomic history and food sociology. All these areas of knowledge are crucial to gastronomy, as they contribute to a better understanding of this broad term and its practical implications for science and society.