Surfzone-beach-dune interactions on the Chinese coasts

IF 2.6 3区地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY

Marine Geology Pub Date : 2025-01-16 DOI:10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107480

Wei Tian , Yuxiang Dong , Shuyi Fu , Shaoyun Zhang , Dequan Huang , Lin Yang

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Wave-beach-dune interactions are essential in investigating coastal aeolian landforms and have attracted decades of research effort. As the conceptual models were proposed and improved, case studies have been explored in-depth, indicating that beach and dune interactions exhibit significant spatial heterogeneity across tidal and wave environments. In this study, sixty-five coastal dune systems along China's coasts are investigated to explore the variability of surfzone-beach-dune interactions along the Chinese coasts and the underpinning mechanisms. A dataset comprising wave height, tidal range, Drift Potential, and beach-dune morphology is established based on interpretations of historical topographical and bathymetric maps, field survey investigations, and monitoring data for waves, tides, and winds. Classifications of surfzone/beach morphodynamics and dune morphology relationships at macro-, meso-, and micro-tide levels are presented, with mechanisms clarified through linear regression analysis between dune height and various environmental variables. Our results show that modal surfzone-beach states in the studied sites are correlated with dune sizes. Spring tidal range influences surfzone-beach state by providing a potentially greater storage space for aeolian sediment transport as tidal range increases. Wave energy acts as a clear driver of onshore sediment transport, with higher wave energy and more dissipative surfzone states correlated with greater sediment supply. Additionally, shoreline orientation and exposure to onshore winds control the occurrences of foredunes. The outcomes of this work provide an overview on the relationships between surfzone/beach and dune systems across the different tidal regimes along Chinese coast. Our dataset and results will provide a scientific basis for evaluating the vulnerability of dune system to hazards impacting the coasts.

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中国海岸的冲浪带-海滩-沙丘相互作用

波浪-海滩-沙丘的相互作用在研究海岸风成地貌中是必不可少的，并且已经吸引了几十年的研究努力。随着概念模型的提出和完善，案例研究得到了深入的探讨，表明海滩和沙丘相互作用在潮汐和波浪环境中表现出显著的空间异质性。本研究以中国沿海65个海岸沙丘系统为研究对象，探讨了中国沿海表层-海滩-沙丘相互作用的变异性及其支撑机制。基于对历史地形和水深图的解释、实地调查调查以及波浪、潮汐和风的监测数据，建立了一个包含波浪高度、潮汐差、漂移势和海滩沙丘形态的数据集。在宏观、中观和微观潮汐水平上对滩带形态动力学和沙丘形态关系进行了分类，并通过沙丘高度与各种环境变量之间的线性回归分析阐明了其机制。研究结果表明，研究地点的表层-海滩模态与沙丘大小相关。随着潮差的增加，春季潮差为风成沉积物输送提供了潜在的更大的储存空间，从而影响了表层-海滩状态。波浪能是陆上泥沙输运的明显驱动因素，较高的波浪能和更多的耗散表层状态与较大的泥沙供应相关。此外，海岸线的朝向和对陆上风的暴露控制了前沙丘的发生。本文的研究结果对中国沿海不同潮汐状态下的滩涂与沙丘系统之间的关系进行了综述。我们的数据和结果将为评估沙丘系统对海岸灾害的脆弱性提供科学依据。

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来源期刊

Marine Geology 地学-地球科学综合

CiteScore

6.10

自引率

6.90%

发文量

175

审稿时长

21.9 weeks

期刊介绍： Marine Geology is the premier international journal on marine geological processes in the broadest sense. We seek papers that are comprehensive, interdisciplinary and synthetic that will be lasting contributions to the field. Although most papers are based on regional studies, they must demonstrate new findings of international significance. We accept papers on subjects as diverse as seafloor hydrothermal systems, beach dynamics, early diagenesis, microbiological studies in sediments, palaeoclimate studies and geophysical studies of the seabed. We encourage papers that address emerging new fields, for example the influence of anthropogenic processes on coastal/marine geology and coastal/marine geoarchaeology. We insist that the papers are concerned with the marine realm and that they deal with geology: with rocks, sediments, and physical and chemical processes affecting them. Papers should address scientific hypotheses: highly descriptive data compilations or papers that deal only with marine management and risk assessment should be submitted to other journals. Papers on laboratory or modelling studies must demonstrate direct relevance to marine processes or deposits. The primary criteria for acceptance of papers is that the science is of high quality, novel, significant, and of broad international interest.