Dried shrimp in Bahian food culture: An ancestral ingredient and a culinary identity

Abstract

The cuisine of Bahia, a state in Brazil, originates from African, indigenous, and European cultures, and its recipes are widespread in books and popular knowledge. Among the characteristic ingredients is the dried shrimp, which is used as a seasoning or as the main ingredient. This study sought to investigate the first uses of dried shrimp and its roles in Bahian cuisine. A review was carried out, based on classic books on Brazilian and Bahian dishes and a survey of recipes using dried shrimp, identifying the names of the dishes, ingredients, and preparation methods. Fourteen books were found that dealt with the uses of dried shrimp, and fifty dishes were recorded. Based on the books, the origin of the use of dried shrimp is linked to the practices of African origin, although it was not possible to precisely explain its introduction into Bahian food. Among the dishes were sauces and braised foods, which mainly use vegetables such as yams, corn, and beans, or include animal-derived ingredients, such as poultry and offal. Popular dishes such as acarajé, caruru, and vatapá stood out, as did some votive dishes such as amalá and ipetê, and others that are no longer used, such as badofe. Among the authors, differences in the ingredients and ways of making some dishes were perceived, which expresses culinary dynamics over time and in the multiple territorial configurations where they are made. The study highlights the secular and traditional use of dried shrimp in Afro-Bahian food culture, associating an active and changing process in preparation and consumption practices. Given the difficulty in identifying in detail the origin of the use of dried shrimp in dishes, future studies based on historical research are reaffirmed.