Hydrodynamic mechanisms of topographic evolution in straight sandy beach: a case study of Wanpingkou beach, China

IF 2.8 2区生物学 Q1 MARINE & FRESHWATER BIOLOGY

Frontiers in Marine Science Pub Date : 2024-11-12 DOI:10.3389/fmars.2024.1488610

Kang Li, Yi Hao, Nan Wang, Yingming Feng, Dehai Song, Yanyu Chen, Hao Zhang, Zhaopeng Ren, Xianwen Bao

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Abstract

Stricter controls on destructive human activities in recent years have improved the protection and management of sandy coasts in China. Marine-driven geomorphic changes have become the predominant process influencing future beach evolution. However, in the complex geomorphic conditions of mixed artificial and natural coastlines, the mechanisms and contributions of various marine-driven factors to beach changes remain unclear. Using methods of field observations and numerical simulations by FVCOM model, this study reveals the sedimentary dynamic mechanism of straight sandy beach in the southern Shandong Peninsula (Wanpingkou beach, WPK beach). From 2005 to 2016, the northern section of WPK Beach eroded at a rate of approximately 2-3 m/year, the middle section at about 0.5-1.5 m/year, and the southern section accrued at an average rate of about 1-2 m/year, demonstrating an overall pattern of “northern erosion and southern accretion.” During winter, the average grain size of beach sediments is about 0.5 mm with minimal variations, indicating an onshore transport trend; in summer, the average grain size is about 0.7 mm with larger variations, indicating an offshore transport trend. Offshore sediment transport correlates mainly with seasonal changes in wind direction, while alongshore sediment transport is influenced by tidal currents, wind-induced currents, and wave-induced currents. Wave-induced currents are the primary force in alongshore sediment transport with a velocity of 0.1-0.3 m/s toward southwest. Followed by tidal currents with a velocity of 0.05-0.1 m/s, and wind-induced currents with a velocity of 0-0.1 m/s, which have a relatively minor impact. Therefore, seasonal changes in beach morphology are primarily controlled by waves, while interannual variations is mainly influenced by a combination of wave-induced currents and tidal currents. With increasing efforts in beach maintenance and coastal ecological restoration in recent years, understanding the sedimentary dynamics of beaches remains of vital theoretical and practical value.

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直沙滩地形演变的水动力机制：中国万平口沙滩案例研究

近年来，对人类破坏性活动的严格控制改善了中国沙质海岸的保护和管理。海洋驱动的地貌变化已成为影响未来沙滩演变的主要过程。然而，在人工与自然混合海岸线的复杂地貌条件下，各种海洋驱动因素对海滩变化的机制和贡献仍不清楚。本研究采用野外观测和 FVCOM 模型数值模拟的方法，揭示了山东半岛南部直沙滩（万平口沙滩、WPK 沙滩）的沉积动力机制。2005-2016年，万平口海滩北段侵蚀速率约为2-3米/年，中段侵蚀速率约为0.5-1.5米/年，南段增生速率平均约为1-2米/年，呈现出 "北侵蚀、南增生 "的总体格局。在冬季，海滩沉积物的平均粒径约为 0.5 毫米，变化极小，表明有向岸上迁移的趋势；在夏季，平均粒径约为 0.7 毫米，变化较大，表明有向岸上迁移的趋势。离岸沉积物迁移主要与风向的季节性变化相关，而沿岸沉积物迁移则受潮汐流、风引流和波浪引流的影响。波浪诱导流是沿岸沉积物迁移的主要动力，其速度为 0.1-0.3 米/秒，流向西南。其次是流速为 0.05-0.1 米/秒的潮汐流和流速为 0-0.1 米/秒的风激流，它们的影响相对较小。因此，海滩形态的季节性变化主要受波浪控制，而年际变化主要受波浪诱导流和潮流的综合影响。近年来，随着海滩维护和海岸生态恢复工作的不断加强，了解海滩的沉积动力学仍具有重要的理论和实践价值。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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来源期刊

Frontiers in Marine Science Agricultural and Biological Sciences-Aquatic Science

CiteScore

5.10

自引率

16.20%

发文量

2443

审稿时长

14 weeks

期刊介绍： Frontiers in Marine Science publishes rigorously peer-reviewed research that advances our understanding of all aspects of the environment, biology, ecosystem functioning and human interactions with the oceans. Field Chief Editor Carlos M. Duarte at King Abdullah University of Science and Technology Thuwal is supported by an outstanding Editorial Board of international researchers. This multidisciplinary open-access journal is at the forefront of disseminating and communicating scientific knowledge and impactful discoveries to researchers, academics, policy makers and the public worldwide. With the human population predicted to reach 9 billion people by 2050, it is clear that traditional land resources will not suffice to meet the demand for food or energy, required to support high-quality livelihoods. As a result, the oceans are emerging as a source of untapped assets, with new innovative industries, such as aquaculture, marine biotechnology, marine energy and deep-sea mining growing rapidly under a new era characterized by rapid growth of a blue, ocean-based economy. The sustainability of the blue economy is closely dependent on our knowledge about how to mitigate the impacts of the multiple pressures on the ocean ecosystem associated with the increased scale and diversification of industry operations in the ocean and global human pressures on the environment. Therefore, Frontiers in Marine Science particularly welcomes the communication of research outcomes addressing ocean-based solutions for the emerging challenges, including improved forecasting and observational capacities, understanding biodiversity and ecosystem problems, locally and globally, effective management strategies to maintain ocean health, and an improved capacity to sustainably derive resources from the oceans.