{"title":"On reversal of wave-generated longshore currents at tidal frequencies on dissipative beaches contiguous to a mesotidal estuary, S.E coast of Nigeria","authors":"","doi":"10.1016/j.margeo.2024.107389","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>Reversals in wave-generated longshore currents in surf zones occur at different temporal and spatial scales. Along coastlines with tidal channel openings with well-developed mouth bars or ebb-tidal deltas, the reversal mechanism is often attributed to the mouth bar – induced refraction of the shoaling waves. This reversal mechanism is characterized by convergence of longshore currents from the adjoining surf zones at the mouth of the tidal channel. Simultaneous half-hourly monitoring of wave-generated longshore currents over 50 successive (daylight) semi-diurnal tidal cycles in beach surf zones adjoining the Qua Iboe River estuary, S.E coast of Nigeria showed the above reversal pattern during flooding stage only. The converse pattern, where the surf zone longshore currents diverged away from the mouth of the estuary, was observed during ebbing stage. Both surf zones showed flow direction inversion with respect to each other, with velocity vector correlation coefficient <em>r</em> > − 0.8 in over 80 % of the data set. Instances of comparable flow direction (<10 %) were also recorded. Tidal processes are implicated in the documented results. Direction-averaged longshore current velocities, typically in the 15–60 cm/s range, attained highest values in both surf zones at about spring tide phase. Also, tidal cycle-residual longshore current maximum and minimum velocities occurred close to spring and neap tide, respectively. Only 30 % of the residual velocities were eastward directed in the up-drift surf zone as against 80 % in the down-drift counterpart. Given the prevailing southwesterly waves, the present results negate the assertion that reversal in longshore current direction in this offset shoreline setting is exclusively a consequence of wave refraction by mouth bar morphology. The reversing pattern of the longshore currents over a tidal cycle is well explained by incorporating interacting effects of shoaling waves with tide-induced oscillations in water level as well as the estuarine flow.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":18229,"journal":{"name":"Marine Geology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.6000,"publicationDate":"2024-08-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Marine Geology","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025322724001737","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
Reversals in wave-generated longshore currents in surf zones occur at different temporal and spatial scales. Along coastlines with tidal channel openings with well-developed mouth bars or ebb-tidal deltas, the reversal mechanism is often attributed to the mouth bar – induced refraction of the shoaling waves. This reversal mechanism is characterized by convergence of longshore currents from the adjoining surf zones at the mouth of the tidal channel. Simultaneous half-hourly monitoring of wave-generated longshore currents over 50 successive (daylight) semi-diurnal tidal cycles in beach surf zones adjoining the Qua Iboe River estuary, S.E coast of Nigeria showed the above reversal pattern during flooding stage only. The converse pattern, where the surf zone longshore currents diverged away from the mouth of the estuary, was observed during ebbing stage. Both surf zones showed flow direction inversion with respect to each other, with velocity vector correlation coefficient r > − 0.8 in over 80 % of the data set. Instances of comparable flow direction (<10 %) were also recorded. Tidal processes are implicated in the documented results. Direction-averaged longshore current velocities, typically in the 15–60 cm/s range, attained highest values in both surf zones at about spring tide phase. Also, tidal cycle-residual longshore current maximum and minimum velocities occurred close to spring and neap tide, respectively. Only 30 % of the residual velocities were eastward directed in the up-drift surf zone as against 80 % in the down-drift counterpart. Given the prevailing southwesterly waves, the present results negate the assertion that reversal in longshore current direction in this offset shoreline setting is exclusively a consequence of wave refraction by mouth bar morphology. The reversing pattern of the longshore currents over a tidal cycle is well explained by incorporating interacting effects of shoaling waves with tide-induced oscillations in water level as well as the estuarine flow.
期刊介绍:
Marine Geology is the premier international journal on marine geological processes in the broadest sense. We seek papers that are comprehensive, interdisciplinary and synthetic that will be lasting contributions to the field. Although most papers are based on regional studies, they must demonstrate new findings of international significance. We accept papers on subjects as diverse as seafloor hydrothermal systems, beach dynamics, early diagenesis, microbiological studies in sediments, palaeoclimate studies and geophysical studies of the seabed. We encourage papers that address emerging new fields, for example the influence of anthropogenic processes on coastal/marine geology and coastal/marine geoarchaeology. We insist that the papers are concerned with the marine realm and that they deal with geology: with rocks, sediments, and physical and chemical processes affecting them. Papers should address scientific hypotheses: highly descriptive data compilations or papers that deal only with marine management and risk assessment should be submitted to other journals. Papers on laboratory or modelling studies must demonstrate direct relevance to marine processes or deposits. The primary criteria for acceptance of papers is that the science is of high quality, novel, significant, and of broad international interest.