The impact of long-term changes in ocean waves and storm surge on coastal shoreline change: a case study of Bass Strait and south-east Australia

M. Ghanavati, Ian Young, Ebru Kirezci, Jin Liu
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Abstract

Abstract. Numerous studies have demonstrated that significant global changes in wave and storm surge conditions have occurred over recent decades and are expected to continue out to at least 2100. This raises the question of whether the observed and projected changes in waves and storm surges will impact coastlines in the future. Previous global-scale analyses of these issues have been inconclusive. This study investigates the south-east coast of Australia over a period of 26 years (1988–2013). Over this period, this area has experienced some of the largest changes in wave climate of any coastal region globally. The analysis uses high-resolution hindcast data of waves and storm surge together with satellite observations of shoreline change. All datasets have been previously extensively validated against in situ measurements. The data are analysed to determine trends in each of these quantities over this period. The coastline is partitioned into regions and spatial consistency between trends in each of the quantities investigated. The results show that beaches along this region appear to have responded to the increases in wave energy flux and changes in wave direction. This has enhanced non-equilibrium longshore drift. Long sections of the coastline show small but measurable recession before sediment transported along the coast is intercepted by prominent headlands. The recession is largest where there are strong trends in increasing wave energy flux and/or changes in wave direction, with recession rates of up to 1 m yr−1. Although this is a regional study, this finding has global implications for shoreline stability in a changing climate.
海浪和风暴潮的长期变化对海岸线变化的影响:巴斯海峡和澳大利亚东南部的案例研究
摘要大量研究表明,近几十年来,全球海浪和风暴潮条件发生了显著变化,预计至少会持续到 2100 年。这就提出了一个问题:观测到的和预测的海浪和风暴潮变化是否会对未来的海岸线产生影响。以往对这些问题进行的全球尺度分析并无定论。本研究对澳大利亚东南海岸进行了为期 26 年(1988-2013 年)的调查。在此期间,该地区经历了全球沿海地区波浪气候最大的一些变化。分析使用了海浪和风暴潮的高分辨率后报数据以及海岸线变化的卫星观测数据。所有数据集之前都根据现场测量结果进行了广泛验证。通过对数据的分析,可以确定这些数据在这一时期内的变化趋势。将海岸线划分为若干区域,并调查每种数量的趋势在空间上的一致性。结果表明,该区域的海滩似乎对波浪能量通量的增加和波浪方向的变化做出了反应。这加剧了非平衡长岸漂移。在沿岸漂移的沉积物被突出的岬角拦截之前,海岸线的长段出现了小幅但可测量的后退。在波能通量增加和/或波浪方向变化趋势强烈的地方,衰退幅度最大,衰退速率可达 1 米/年-1。虽然这是一项区域性研究,但这一发现对气候变化下的海岸线稳定性具有全球性影响。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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