Wood Extracts for Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics—Special View on Mordanting Procedures

Textiles Pub Date : 2024-04-12 DOI:10.3390/textiles4020010
Thanh Hoa Mai, T. Grethe, B. Mahltig
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Abstract

Natural dyes offer a bio-based opportunity to support the attractive coloration of textile fabrics made from natural fibers like cotton, wool, hemp, and many other textile materials. They can be part of a strategy to realize fully bio-based textiles and clothing materials. In line with this statement, the following study investigates the use of wood extracts for dyeing cotton fabrics. Specifically, extract powders of logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum L.), brazilwood (Caesalpinia spp.), and quebracho wood (Schinopsis lorentzii) are used. The aim of the study is to evaluate which colorations can be obtained by the application of those wood extracts and what fastness properties are reached. For this, different modified process parameters and mordants are evaluated. The dyeing process is modified using different mordants based on iron and aluminum salts. These mordants are applied in pre-, meta-, or post-mordant procedures. The color and fastness properties of prepared textile samples are determined by spectroscopic measurements, color measurements, washing procedures, and a Xenotest for measuring the light fastness. Ultimately, it is shown that a broad range of colorations can be realized through different combinations of wood extracts and mordanting procedures. Notably, stronger color depths are reached with pre- and meta-mordanting compared to post-mordanting. Good wash fastness is obtained for some color shades. However, with post-mordanting, better wash fastness can be achieved. The light fastness of the realized samples is only moderate to low. In conclusion, it can be stated that dyes from wood extracts are excellent materials to dye natural fibers if they are combined with the right mordanting agent in pre- or meta-mordanting procedures. The present study is therefore a good proof-of-concept for the realization of fully bio-based colored textile materials.
用于棉织物染色的木质提取物--关于媒染程序的特殊观点
天然染料以生物为基础,为棉花、羊毛、大麻等天然纤维和许多其他纺织材料制成的纺织品提供了迷人的着色效果。它们可以成为实现完全生物基纺织品和服装材料战略的一部分。根据这一观点,以下研究调查了木质提取物在棉织物染色中的应用。具体来说,研究使用了原木(Haematoxylon campechianum L.)、巴西木(Caesalpinia spp.)和坚木(Schinopsis lorentzii)的提取物粉末。研究的目的是评估使用这些木材提取物可以获得哪些着色效果,以及达到什么样的牢度特性。为此,对不同的改良工艺参数和媒染剂进行了评估。染色过程中使用了不同的基于铁盐和铝盐的媒染剂。这些媒染剂在前媒染、元媒染或后媒染过程中使用。通过光谱测量、颜色测量、水洗程序和用于测量耐光牢度的 Xenotest,确定了所制备纺织品样品的颜色和牢度特性。最终结果表明,通过木质提取物和媒染程序的不同组合,可以实现多种着色效果。值得注意的是,与媒染后相比,媒染前和媒染后的着色深度更深。某些色调还能获得良好的耐洗牢度。不过,后经媒染可以获得更好的耐洗牢度。实现的样品耐光牢度仅为中等至低。总之,可以说木材提取物中的染料是天然纤维染色的极佳材料,只要在前或后媒染过程中与合适的媒染剂结合使用即可。因此,本研究是实现完全生物基彩色纺织材料的良好概念验证。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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