“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok

IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS
Maureen Lehto Brewster
{"title":"“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok","authors":"Maureen Lehto Brewster","doi":"10.1177/0887302x241244789","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.4000,"publicationDate":"2024-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","FirstCategoryId":"91","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x241244789","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q3","JCRName":"BUSINESS","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

Abstract

This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.
"这不仅仅是服装的问题":在 #RushTok 上时尚性别、种族和阶级
这篇手稿分析了 TikTok 上的 "每日一装"(OOTD)内容,以思考在被称为 "RushTok "的数字社交中,时尚服饰风格和社交媒体实践如何(重新)在泛壳女生联谊会中产生性别、种族和阶级规范。我使用了女权主义虚拟民族志来探究 2022 年泛希腊女学生联谊会招募周期内制作的 97 个 OOTD 视频。我在这些数据中追踪了联谊会女孩的概念,以描绘她在 RushTok 社交中的出现和影响。我发现,RushTok OOTDs 对传统时尚媒体的做法进行了重塑,这种社交中的风格-时尚-着装做法强调奢侈品牌、高度女性化但保守的风格以及身体纪律。这些都是由空间和算法逻辑(重新)塑造的,这些逻辑赋予了联谊会女孩(重新)产生白人、富有、女性化理想的特权。泛希腊女学生联谊会的逻辑与 TikTok 算法相互作用,使这种理想化的女学生联谊会更加明显,从而进一步(重新)产生了差异等级。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
求助全文
约1分钟内获得全文 求助全文
来源期刊
CiteScore
5.30
自引率
5.30%
发文量
12
期刊介绍: Published quarterly, Clothing & Textiles Research Journal strives to strengthen the research base in clothing and textiles, facilitate scholarly interchange, demonstrate the interdisciplinary nature of the field, and inspire further research. CTRJ publishes articles in the following areas: •Textiles, fiber, and polymer science •Aesthetics and design •Consumer Theories and Behavior •Social and psychological aspects of dress or educational issues •Historic and cultural aspects of dress •International/retailing/merchandising management and industry analysis
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
copy
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
右上角分享
点击右上角分享
0
联系我们:info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术官方微信