Evaluation of Photosensitizing Ability of Antioxidants Used in Skincare Products

IF 1.1 4区 化学 Q3 CHEMISTRY, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
Irene Lagunes, Á. Trigos
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Abstract. Singlet oxygen generation is possible by photosensitizer molecules able to absorb energy from light and transfer it to molecular oxygen. Singlet oxygen is able to react with components of cellular membranes such as cholesterol leading to peroxidation products implicated in photoaging. In order to prevent oxidative damage caused by reactive oxygen species, skincare products enriched with antioxidants have been developed; in spite of some pro-oxidant effects associated with antioxidants has been reported. Based on this data, the photosensitizing ability of 14 antioxidants commonly used in skincare products was evaluated through the photo-oxidation of ergosterol, using ergosterol as oxidizable substrate to quench singlet oxygen. Singlet oxygen indirectly detection was performed through 1H-NMR mixtures analysis by ergosterol peroxide detection. The results revealed that fisetin, retinol, cyanidin and hesperetin they acted as photosensitizer antioxidants in generation of singlet oxygen. Conversely, caffeic acid, luteolin, rutin, vanillic acid, ascorbic acid, apigenin, epigallocatechin gallate, rosmarinic acid, myricetin and kaempferol were not able to generate singlet oxygen through a photosensitized mechanism. Our results allow us to suggest that the incorporation of antioxidants in skincare products as anti-aging treatments should be supported by their evaluation against photosensitizing ability in order to increase their safety.   Resumen. La generación del oxígeno singulete es posible a través de moléculas fotosensibilizadoras capaces de absorber energía proveniente de la luz y transferirla al oxígeno molecular. El oxígeno singulete es capaz de reaccionar con componentes de membranas celulares como el colesterol formando productos de peroxidación implicados en el foto-envejecimiento. Para prevenir el daño oxidativo causado por especies reactivas del oxígeno, se han desarrollado productos para el cuidado de la piel enriquecidos con antioxidantes, a pesar de que han sido reportados algunos efectos prooxidantes asociados a los antioxidantes. Con base en lo anterior, se evaluó la capacidad fotosensibilizadora de 14 antioxidantes comúnmente utilizados en productos para el cuidado de la piel mediante la foto-oxidación de ergosterol, utilizando ergosterol como sustrato oxidable para atrapar oxígeno singulete. La detección indirecta del oxígeno singulete se realizó mediante análisis de mezclas de RMN-1H a través de la detección de peróxido de ergosterol. Los resultados mostraron que fisetina, retinol, cianidina y hesperetina actuaron como antioxidantes fotosensibilizadores en la generación de oxígeno singulete. Por el contrario, ácido cafeico, luteolina, rutina, ácido vainillínico, ácido ascórbico, apigenina, galato de epigalocatequina, ácido rosmarínico, miricetina y kaempferol no fueron capaces de generar oxígeno singulete mediante mecanismos fotosensibilizados. Los resultados permiten sugerir que la incorporación de antioxidantes en productos para el cuidado de la piel como tratamiento anti-envejecimiento debe respaldarse con la evaluación de la capacidad fotosensibilizadora para incrementar su seguridad.
护肤品中使用的抗氧化剂的光敏能力评估
摘要光敏剂分子能够从光中吸收能量并将其传递给分子氧,从而产生单线态氧。单线态氧能与胆固醇等细胞膜成分发生反应,产生过氧化产物,从而导致光老化。为了防止活性氧造成的氧化损伤,人们开发了富含抗氧化剂的护肤品;尽管有报道称抗氧化剂具有一些促氧化作用。基于这些数据,研究人员通过麦角甾醇的光氧化反应评估了护肤品中常用的 14 种抗氧化剂的光敏能力,并使用麦角甾醇作为可氧化底物来淬灭单线态氧。通过麦角固醇过氧化物检测进行 1H-NMR 混合物分析,间接检测单线态氧。结果表明,鱼腥草素、视黄醇、青黛素和橙皮素在生成单线态氧的过程中起到了光敏抗氧化剂的作用。相反,咖啡酸、叶黄素、芦丁、香草酸、抗坏血酸、芹菜素、表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯、迷迭香酸、杨梅素和山奈酚不能通过光敏机制产生单线态氧。我们的研究结果表明,在护肤品中加入抗氧化剂作为抗衰老治疗时,应评估它们的光敏能力,以提高其安全性。总结。单线态氧是通过能够吸收光能并将其转移到分子氧的光敏分子产生的。单线态氧能够与胆固醇等细胞膜成分发生反应,形成过氧化产物,从而导致光老化。为了防止活性氧造成的氧化损伤,人们开发了富含抗氧化剂的护肤产品,不过也有报道称抗氧化剂具有一些促氧化作用。在此基础上,通过麦角甾醇的光氧化反应,评估了护肤品中常用的 14 种抗氧化剂的光敏能力,使用麦角甾醇作为可氧化底物来捕获单线态氧。通过检测麦角固醇过氧化物,采用 NMR-1H NMR 混合分析法对单线态氧进行了间接检测。结果表明,鱼腥草素、视黄醇、青黛素和橙皮素在生成单线态氧的过程中起到了光敏抗氧化剂的作用。相比之下,咖啡酸、叶黄素、芦丁、香草醛酸、抗坏血酸、芹菜素、表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯、迷迭香酸、杨梅素和山奈酚不能通过光敏机制产生单线态氧。研究结果表明,在将抗氧化剂纳入护肤产品作为抗衰老治疗时,应通过光敏能力评估来提高其安全性。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.00
自引率
0.00%
发文量
0
审稿时长
6-12 weeks
期刊介绍: The Journal of the Mexican Chemical Society (J. Mex. Chem. Soc.) is a scientific, blind, peer reviewed, and open access, free of charge publication that covers all areas of chemistry and its sub-disciplines (i.e. medicinal chemistry, natural products, electrochemistry, material science, computational chemistry, organic chemistry, bionirganic chemistry, etc). It is devoted to facilitating the worldwide advancement of our understanding of chemistry. It will primarily publish original contributions of research in all branches of the theory and practice of chemistry in its broadest context as well as critical reviews in active areas of chemical research where the author has published significant contribution. The J. Mex. Chem. Soc. is a quarterly publication which language of submission and publication is English. To be suitable for publication in J. Mex. Chem. Soc., manuscripts must describe novel aspects of chemistry, high quality of results and discussion an excellent bibliographic support, and contribute to the development of the field. Routine or incremental work are not suitable for publication in J. Mex. Chem. Soc. Authors are encouraged to send contributions in electronic form. Our online submission system guides you stepwise through the process of entering your article details and uploading your files.
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