Peasant Food Provision Strategies and Scientific Proposals for Famine Foods in Eighteenth-Century Sweden

I. Svanberg, S. Ståhlberg
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Abstract

The peasant diet during the Little Ice Age in Sweden was mainly grain-based (bread, gruel, and porridge), and the country was heavily dependent on grain imports to meet the population’s needs for food. During the eighteenth century in particular, when famines were frequent following failed harvests, Swedish peasants utilized a range of locally available resources to survive. Bark bread made of cambium (phloem) from Pinus sylvestris was, for example, commonly used as famine food. Scientists of the Enlightenment period and the state authorities tried to alleviate hunger and poverty through the introduction of new food resources and cooking techniques, including wild or agricultural plants such as lichens or potato, and the use of protein sources different from the traditional ones, such as horse meat. However, many of these proposals encountered strong resistance from the peasantry, and only at the end of the 1800s famines ceased to cause suffering in Sweden. Scientific studies have so far focused mainly on mortality, malnutrition, demography, and official responses to famines; yet the question of what the starving peasants gathered, prepared, and consumed is important for the understanding of the historical situation. Also, the difference between the scientific proposals and peasants’ decisions and choices must be clearly distinguished. This historical study using an ethnobiological approach discusses peasant subsistence strategies in Sweden in the eighteenth century using contemporary sources, which provide an opportunity to study how the population obtained foodstuffs, adapted their diet to available ingredients, and the interaction and conflicting views of peasants and scientists about new, science-based nutrition proposals.
十八世纪瑞典农民的粮食供应策略和科学的饥荒食品建议
小冰河时期瑞典农民的饮食主要以谷物为主(面包、稀饭和粥),该国严重依赖谷物进口来满足人口对食物的需求。特别是在十八世纪,歉收后饥荒频发,瑞典农民利用当地的各种资源维持生计。例如,用欧洲赤松(Pinus sylvestris)的树皮(韧皮部)制成的树皮面包就曾被用作饥荒食品。启蒙运动时期的科学家和国家当局试图通过引进新的食物资源和烹饪技术,包括地衣或马铃薯等野生或农业植物,以及使用马肉等不同于传统的蛋白质来源,来缓解饥饿和贫困。然而,这些建议很多都遭到了农民的强烈抵制,直到 19 世纪末,饥荒才不再给瑞典带来痛苦。迄今为止,科学研究主要集中在死亡率、营养不良、人口统计和官方对饥荒的反应上;然而,饥饿的农民收集、准备和食用什么的问题对于了解历史情况非常重要。此外,必须明确区分科学建议与农民的决定和选择之间的差异。这项历史研究采用民族生物学方法,利用当代资料讨论了十八世纪瑞典农民的生存策略,为研究人们如何获取食物、如何根据现有食材调整饮食,以及农民和科学家对新的科学营养建议的互动和相互冲突的观点提供了机会。
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