Assessment of satellite altimetry SWH measurements by in situ observations within 25 km from the coast

Abstract

Satellite radar altimeters (SA) have been providing ocean wind and wave measurements for over 35 years. These data have been used for modelling data assimilation, improving wind and wave climatology, and determining long-term trends of the oceanic wave parameters. Fixed observational sites (in situ locations), such as buoys, have provided reliable wave observations since the early 1970s. However, their positioning is inhomogeneous, mainly in the Northern Hemisphere, and only provides point measurements. SA significant wave height (SWH) measurements have been proven as accurate as in situ observations, particularly in the open ocean. Progress in coastal altimetry sensors, upgraded data corrections, and new extraction algorithms have recently improved the quality of SA measurements closer to the coast. This study evaluates the performance of 12 SA missions from 1985 to 2020, particularly in nearshore areas. The SA SWH along-track measurements are compared with observations from 402 in situ locations, distributed worldwide within 25 km of the coastline. Results indicate a slight overestimation from the 12 SA missions, mainly for lower sea states (under 2 m high) and closer to the coast (0 to 10 km). The Sentinel-3 mission showed the highest percentages of valid measurements near the coast and presented 72.66% of collocated in situ data. This SA mission has shown the best overall performance closer to the coast, with biases, correlation coefficient, and root-mean-squared error of 0.23 m, 0.85 m, and 0.50 m, respectively. SA undersampling in coastal areas is present and can lead to underestimation during extreme wave events. The cross-validation of the wave data in two regional analyses conducted during periods of severe wave conditions is evaluated for the new altimeters’ generation.