From Chinese food to Japan’s Hokkaido heritage: The transformation of the grilled mutton or lamb dish ‘Jingisukan’

Abstract

Jingisukan is a dish in which mutton or lamb and vegetables are grilled using a uniquely shaped pan with a convex center. It originated from the popular Chinese dish ‘Kao Yang Rou’ (grilled mutton), which was discovered by Japanese individuals in Beijing and underwent modifications, leading to the creation of the distinctive name ‘Jingisukan’. This dish was then introduced to the Japanese in Northeast China, specifically known as ‘Manchuria’, and gained fame as a specialty of ‘Manchukuo’, being highly valued even by the Japanese army. Following Japan’s defeat in World War II, Jingisukan became a local dish in Hokkaido and was recognized as a ‘Hokkaido Heritage’ in 2004. The widespread popularity of this dish in Japan can be attributed to its association with Genghis Khan. However, in Mongolia, Genghis Khan is a revered national hero, leading to opposition from some people regarding the use of his name for a dish. This paper provides a concise overview of the birth and spread of Jingisukan, followed by an examination of how the Japanese perceived the history of Jingisukan, which was intertwined with imperialism after World War II. It investigates the reasons for and processes behind the transformation of the dish into local cuisine in Hokkaido. Post-war Jingisukan no longer evokes the heroic imagery used to boost morale during the pre-war and wartime periods. Instead, it became a comfort food that acknowledged the reality of defeat and served as a means of healing. During that time, Jingisukan spread throughout Hokkaido and came to be recognized as the ‘flavor of the homeland’, while also being utilized as a tourism resource. Can we cherish and utilize this dish and its name, which has been beloved by the Japanese for over a century, as a cultural heritage that connects many people, ethnicities, and nations?