[Simultaneous determination of 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry].

Abstract

Glucocorticoids, which are a class of steroidal hormones secreted by the adrenal cortex, have significant anti-inflammatory, immunosuppressive, and anti-allergic effects. Thus, these compounds are widely used in clinical practice. However, the long-term use of cosmetics containing glucocorticoids can lead to serious consequences, such as hormone-dependent dermatitis, hypertension, and other serious injuries. The Safety and Technical Specification for Cosmetics (2015 edition) and Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council on cosmetic products list glucocorticoids as prohibited raw materials. According to the National Medical Products Administration, reports on the illegal addition of glucocorticoids to cosmetics by manufacturers have increased in recent years. Therefore, establishing high-throughput screening methods to ensure the quality and safety of cosmetics is imperative. In this study, a comprehensive analytical method based on ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) was developed for the rapid screening of 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics. A series of conditions were optimized using three matrices that are commonly used in cosmetics: water, lotion, and cream (o/w-type). Four mobile-phase systems and three chromatographic columns were then optimized to achieve the best separation effects. Various MS parameters, such as the capillary voltages, cone voltages, desolvation gas flow rates, and collision energies of the ion pairs of the target compounds, were also optimized. Furthermore, pretreatment was essential for glucocorticoid determination owing to the complex matrix effects of cosmetics. The analytes were divided into two groups, with lg K_ow=4 as the limit, to compare the effects of the extraction solvent on recoveries. The extraction recoveries of target analytes with six extraction methods, namely, extraction with acetonitrile, extraction with acetone, extraction with ethyl acetate, dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with acetonitrile, dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with acetone, and dispersion in saturated sodium chloride solution followed by extraction with ethyl acetate, were compared. The recoveries from QuEChERS and solid-phase extraction (SPE) purification were also compared. Based on the experimental results, the final sample pretreatment method included acetonitrile vortex dispersion, ultrasonic extraction, and sample loading after filtration. The 83 target compounds were separated on a Thermo Accucore PFP column (100 mm×2.1 mm, 2.6 μm) with 0.1% (v/v) acetic acid in acetonitrile and 0.1% (v/v) acetic acid in water as the mobile phases. The analytes were determined by dynamic multiple-reaction monitoring (MRM) in electrospray positive ionization mode (ESI⁺) and quantified using the external standard method. Matrix standard curves were used to reduce matrix effects. The calibration curves of the 83 target compounds were linear in the mass concentration range of 2-200 μg/L (r>0.995). At three levels of addition, the recoveries were 74.5%-112.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) were 0.8%-9.9%. The limits of detection (LODs, S/N≥3) were 0.001-0.023 μg/g, and the limits of quantification (LOQs, S/N≥10) were 0.002-0.076 μg/g. The developed method was used to detect glucocorticoids in 41 cosmetic samples. Fluocinolone acetonide, beclomethasone dipropionate, desonide 21-acetate, and desonide were detected in four samples. The content range of glucocorticoids in the positive samples was 0.53-634.27 μg/g. Notably, desonide 21-acetate, which is not included in the scope of the statutory detection method, was detected in two batches of samples. In conclusion, the proposed method is simple, sensitive, reliable, and suitable for the high-throughput analysis of the 83 glucocorticoids in cosmetics with different matrices. This method could provide reliable technical support for the daily supervision of cosmetics and serve as a supplement to current glucocorticoid standards.