{"title":"Dyeing performance of wool fabric with natural pigment from <i>Cordyceps militaris</i>","authors":"Jie Chen, Qing Suo, Yu Ni, Jiajing Yan, Yunli Wang, Huiyu Jiang, Huan Qi","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2023.2261814","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"AbstractAs a sustainable and ecological dye resource, the biomass materials are receiving more and more attention. In this work, the pigments in Cordyceps militaris were extracted and applied for dyeing wool fabrics, and the various properties were investigated. The extracted pigments and dyed wool fibers were analyzed and characterized by ultraviolet–visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The single-factor experiments were used to screen and optimize the dyeing process. Six metal mordants with different use order were compared with each other, and their possible mordanting mechanisms were proposed. The color fastnesses, UV resistance and antioxidant properties were evaluated after dyeing. The results showed that UV-Vis, LC-MS and FTIR analysis confirmed that the main components of C. militaris extract was lutein. The optimal dyeing process for the extract was as follows: dyestuff mass 200% (o.m.f.), dyeing temperature 90 °C, dyeing time 45 min, bath pH 5.0, Na2SO4 mass 0 g/L. Metal ions are added to form chelate bonds between the dyes and the fibers, further improving the color fastness. The dyed fabric exhibits excellent UV resistance and its UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) value increases with the color yield. Meanwhile, the dyed wool fabric could exhibit up to 94.77% antioxidant activity. These results provide new insight for the application of C. militaris pigments on wool fabric.Keywords: Cordyceps militariswool fabricluteinmordant dyeingUV resistance AcknowledgmentsThe authors are grateful to the College of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering of WTU and the College of Textiles and Apparel of QNU for providing lab facility.Disclosure statementThe authors have no conflict of interest regarding publishing the article.Additional informationFundingThis research was funded by the Fujian Provincial Natural Science Foundation Projects Program (No.2019J01741), State Key Laboratory of New Textile Materials and Advanced Processing Technology (No. FZ2020014).","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"88 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":1.5000,"publicationDate":"2023-09-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Journal of the Textile Institute","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2023.2261814","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
AbstractAs a sustainable and ecological dye resource, the biomass materials are receiving more and more attention. In this work, the pigments in Cordyceps militaris were extracted and applied for dyeing wool fabrics, and the various properties were investigated. The extracted pigments and dyed wool fibers were analyzed and characterized by ultraviolet–visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The single-factor experiments were used to screen and optimize the dyeing process. Six metal mordants with different use order were compared with each other, and their possible mordanting mechanisms were proposed. The color fastnesses, UV resistance and antioxidant properties were evaluated after dyeing. The results showed that UV-Vis, LC-MS and FTIR analysis confirmed that the main components of C. militaris extract was lutein. The optimal dyeing process for the extract was as follows: dyestuff mass 200% (o.m.f.), dyeing temperature 90 °C, dyeing time 45 min, bath pH 5.0, Na2SO4 mass 0 g/L. Metal ions are added to form chelate bonds between the dyes and the fibers, further improving the color fastness. The dyed fabric exhibits excellent UV resistance and its UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) value increases with the color yield. Meanwhile, the dyed wool fabric could exhibit up to 94.77% antioxidant activity. These results provide new insight for the application of C. militaris pigments on wool fabric.Keywords: Cordyceps militariswool fabricluteinmordant dyeingUV resistance AcknowledgmentsThe authors are grateful to the College of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering of WTU and the College of Textiles and Apparel of QNU for providing lab facility.Disclosure statementThe authors have no conflict of interest regarding publishing the article.Additional informationFundingThis research was funded by the Fujian Provincial Natural Science Foundation Projects Program (No.2019J01741), State Key Laboratory of New Textile Materials and Advanced Processing Technology (No. FZ2020014).
期刊介绍:
The Journal of The Textile Institute welcomes papers concerning research and innovation, reflecting the professional interests of the Textile Institute in science, engineering, economics, management and design related to the textile industry and the use of fibres in consumer and engineering applications. Papers may encompass anything in the range of textile activities, from fibre production through textile processes and machines, to the design, marketing and use of products. Papers may also report fundamental theoretical or experimental investigations, including materials science topics in nanotechnology and smart materials, practical or commercial industrial studies and may relate to technical, economic, aesthetic, social or historical aspects of textiles and the textile industry.
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