MODELLING OF SPILLING AND PLUNGING BREAKING WAVES IN SPECTRAL MODELS

Abstract

Based on the data of field experiments and modeling was revealed that the dissipation of the energy of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum due to wave breaking should compensate the nonlinear growth of higher wave harmonics, which occurs in different ways both for waves breaking with different types and for different methods of modeling a nonlinear source term. The effect of the dissipative term type used on the estimates of sediment transport is discussed.