Long-Wave Generation due to Atmospheric-Pressure Variation and Harbor Oscillation in Harbors of Various Shapes and Countermeasures against Meteotsunamis

Abstract

First, the generation and propagation of long ocean waves due to the atmospheric-pressure variation have been simulated using the numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equations, where the atmospheric-pressure waves of various pressure-profile patterns travel eastward over East China Sea. Before the oscillation attenuation in Urauchi Bay, Japan, the incidence of long waves can continue owing to an oscillation system generated between the main island of Kyushu and Okinawa Trough. Second, the simple estimate equations are proposed to predict both the wave height and wavelength of long waves caused by an atmospheric-pressure wave, using atmospheric-pressure data above the ocean. Third, numerical simulation has been generated for the oscillation in the harbors of C-, I-, L-, and T-type shapes, as well as Urauchi Bay with two bay heads like a T-type harbor. Finally, we discuss disaster measures, including the real-time prediction of meteotsunami generation, as well as both the structural and the nonstructural preparations.