Preliminary Study: Development of Sport Climbing Hold Measurement System for Performance Analysis

Nina Pernuš, D. Munro
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Abstract

Sport climbing performance analysis requires knowledge of the specific motions and the interactions of the athlete with the climbing holds. The objective of this research is to develop a low-cost measurement system for detecting performance parameters with an instrument mounting screw used with a climbing hold. In the preliminary study, strain gauges were bonded to the shank of a screw and analyzed according to bending theory. For the experimental results, a climbing hold was mounted to a provisional wall with an instrumented mounting screw. The system was able to detect loads at increments of 2 kg applied to the climbing hold with accuracy and repeatability. Testing of loading when applied laterally from the center of the climbing hold showed that the alignment of the strain gauge and location of applied loads are important. The measurement system was capable of identifying the total contact time and time for each application of loads more than 1 kg. Results showed an instrumented mounting screw can be used for monitoring the climber’s fluency during climbing and provide information about load distribution between climbing holds during their ascent.
运动攀爬持力测量系统的初步研究
运动攀爬性能分析需要了解具体的动作和运动员与攀爬点的相互作用。本研究的目的是开发一种低成本的测量系统,用于检测性能参数,该系统使用带有爬升支架的仪器安装螺钉。在初步研究中,将应变片粘接在螺杆上,并根据弯曲理论进行了分析。为了得到实验结果,我们用仪器安装螺钉将一个攀爬支架安装在临时壁上。该系统能够以精确和可重复性的方式检测施加在攀爬支架上的2千克增量载荷。从攀爬舱中心横向施加载荷的测试表明,应变片的对准和施加载荷的位置是重要的。该测量系统能够识别总接触时间和每次施加超过1kg负载的时间。结果表明,安装螺钉可以监测攀爬者在攀爬过程中的流畅性,并提供攀爬过程中各攀爬点之间载荷分布的信息。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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