Saberes e sabores da maré em Saubara – Bahia: comida, um ritual à mesa

Inadja Elizabete Nogueira Souza Vieira
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Abstract

In this essay, food knowledge developed and transmitted for generations in the municipality of Saubara, Bahia, Brazil, is exposed. The text contains fragments of the participant observation of a master’s research concluded in 2018, about the cultural manifestations in Saubara and the contributions for the preservation of the city’s mangroves. In order to be closer to the studied reality, different methodological tools were used: observations, informal conversations, image bank, questionnaire, interviews and field notes. According to Bogdan and Biklen (1994), studies that use observation in qualitative research have the researcher as their main characteristic. Thus, the perception of events or actions can be better understood, as they are observed in their environment. This kind of knowledge is intimately linked to the daily contact with mangroves, a place of life in which productive and symbolic relationships observed in loco are established. The theoretical contribution that guided the work has come especially from Tuan (2012; 2013). The concept of topophilia was built by Yi Fu Tuan (1974) and is the key to the understanding of the “love of the place”, a guide to think about the environment in the way it is perceived by social actors. It made us understand how the tide is intimately interwoven with the memories of food in the city, highlighting popular knowledge as a social, cultural and environmental system. Recipes with family secrets inscribed on the memory resist to time and nourish the body and the soul. The tide fruits are the main ingredients for the survival of these recipes transmitted by generations.
苏巴拉-巴伊亚潮汐的知识和味道:食物,餐桌上的仪式
在这篇文章中,食品知识的发展和代代相传在萨巴拉市,巴伊亚,巴西,是暴露的。文本包含了2018年完成的硕士研究的参与者观察的片段,该研究涉及萨巴拉的文化表现形式以及对保护城市红树林的贡献。为了更接近研究的现实,使用了不同的方法工具:观察、非正式谈话、图片库、问卷调查、访谈和实地笔记。根据Bogdan和Biklen(1994),在定性研究中使用观察的研究以研究者为主要特征。因此,对事件或行动的感知可以更好地理解,因为它们是在环境中观察到的。这种知识与与红树林的日常接触密切相关,红树林是一个生活场所,在那里建立了生产性和象征性的关系。指导这项工作的理论贡献主要来自于Tuan (2012;2013)。topophilia的概念是由Yi Fu Tuan(1974)提出的,它是理解“对地方的爱”的关键,它引导人们以社会行动者感知环境的方式来思考环境。它让我们了解了潮汐是如何与城市食物的记忆紧密交织在一起的,突出了作为社会、文化和环境系统的流行知识。将家族秘密铭刻在记忆中的食谱,可以抵抗时间的流逝,滋养身体和灵魂。潮果是这些代代相传的食谱得以保存的主要原料。
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