Clothing Norms in Tertiary Institutions: Negotiating Fashion Towards Social Hegemony

A. Ubelejit-Nte
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Abstract

Public discourse and scholarship espouse the subjective influence of clothing norms over the natural body as visual markers of the social boundaries of fashion. As a backlash to student fashion on campus with growing incidences of immodest dressing, most tertiary institutions particularly in Nigeria introduced dress standards. Scholars have elaborated on how fashion has been used to negotiate social boundaries of power, identity, status, gender, etc.They differed on the approval/acceptability and disapproval/unacceptability of the institutional control over clothing behaviour of adults. This article underscores the role fashion plays as an effective driver of social control and hegemony. Also, by underpinning sartorial practices in conformity to established institutional expectations and standards of appropriate nuances of formal dressing in institutions of higher learning. From an ethnographic standpoint, the study analysed the institutional standards of formal dressing or dress codes of different tertiary institutions in Nigeria as posted on their websites in addition to the participant method. This information is equally published in the students′ handbooks of these institutions. The post-structural Foucaultian approach to Discipline and Punishment is applied as an analytical framework. This explains disciplinary power as a mechanism of social control of the body in contemporary society through conformity to approved dress standards in a formal environment like the university. It is argued that the framework provides an understanding of the significance of social control which may be hampered by misconceptions about what other people think of clothing norms.
高等院校的服装规范:走向社会霸权的谈判时尚
公共话语和学术支持服装规范对自然身体的主观影响,作为时尚社会界限的视觉标记。随着学生着装不得体的事件日益增多,校园里对学生时尚的强烈抵制,大多数高等院校(尤其是尼日利亚的高等院校)都引入了着装标准。学者们详细阐述了时尚是如何被用来谈判权力、身份、地位、性别等社会界限的。他们对成年人对服装行为的制度性控制的认可/可接受性和不认可/不可接受性存在分歧。这篇文章强调了时尚作为社会控制和霸权的有效驱动力的作用。此外,通过巩固服装实践,使其符合既定的制度期望和高等院校正式着装的适当细微差别标准。从民族志的角度来看,除了参与者方法之外,该研究还分析了尼日利亚不同高等教育机构在其网站上公布的正式着装标准或着装规范。这些资料同样刊登在这些院校的学生手册中。后结构的福柯方法的纪律和惩罚被应用作为一个分析框架。这就解释了纪律权力在当代社会中是一种社会控制身体的机制,通过在大学这样的正式环境中遵守公认的着装标准。有人认为,该框架提供了对社会控制重要性的理解,而这种理解可能会受到对他人对着装规范看法的误解的阻碍。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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