Sloping beach with wave breaking and moving shoreline on Romanian Black Sea coast

F. Panaitescu, M. Panaitescu, I. Anton
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Abstract

Purpose of the work: wave breaking and wave run-up on a gently sloping plane beach from Romanian Black Sea Coast. That coast has a length of 244 km and an almost linear configuration with the exception of build-up areas. The paper concentrates on shoaling of regular waves and spilling type of wave breaking running with a simulation on software MIKE 21. Research and methodology: the paper contents the measurements for spilling and plunging type of breakers on a plane sloping beach with a slope of 1/45 starting in depth of 0.23 m to 0.46 m. A moving shoreline is included in the simulations. With respect to the parameters of the breaker model the standard values are applied. An explicit filter is introduced near the still water shoreline to remove short-wave instabilities and to dissipate the wave energy in the model. Results: the obtained values indicate the wave breaking and wave run-up processes, the spatial variation of a number of phase-averaged quantities and the shoreline motion converted intro a vertical and a horizontal displacement.
罗马尼亚黑海沿岸有波浪破碎和移动海岸线的倾斜海滩
作品目的:在罗马尼亚黑海海岸平缓倾斜的平面沙滩上的破浪和助浪。这条海岸长244公里,除了建设区域外,几乎是线性的。本文主要研究规则波的浅滩化和溢出型破波运行,并在MIKE 21软件上进行了模拟。研究方法:在0.23 m ~ 0.46 m的坡度为1/45的平面倾斜海滩上进行了溢出式和倾入式破碎机的测量。模拟中包含了移动的海岸线。对于断路器模型的参数,采用标准值。在静水岸线附近引入显式滤波器以消除模型中的短波不稳定性和耗散波浪能量。结果:所得值反映了波浪的破碎和上升过程,若干相平均量的空间变化,以及海岸线运动转化为垂直和水平位移。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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