,,Ar iš balos tas gražumas mano prigimimo?” Mintys, kilusios skaitant tradicinei lietuvių valstiečių vyrų aprangai skirtą monografiją

Jonas Mardosa
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Abstract

‘Mirror, Mirror on the W all, Who’s the Fairest of them All?’ Thoughts on a Monograph about the Traditional Clothing of Lithuanian Peasant Men The author of the review discusses the debatable aspects of Vida Kulikauskienė’s monograph ‘Traditional Clothing of Lithuanian Peasant Men’. First, he highlights the value of the book. He notes that the book is the result of Kulikauskienė‘s longterm research into traditional peasant men’s clothing, and the reconstruction and creation of the Lithuanian national clothes in relation to it. Ethnographic fieldwork, which began in the 1960s, took place within the context of the preparation of the ‘Historical Ethnographic Atlas of Baltic National Clothes’. Until then, research into women’s traditional clothing, which had been carried out for several decades, and the well-established picture of their regional sets, contrasted with men’s clothing as depicted mostly in a variety of fragmentary literary texts. After a few years, the ethnographic information covering the entire territory of Lithuania began to appear in Kulikauskienė’s articles published in various local monographs. After supplementing the data gathered during the ethnographic field-trips with literary material, and researching in museums and archives, Kulikauskienė wrote and sucessfully defended her doctoral dissertation. At the same time, an introductory text for the ‘Historical Ethnographic Atlas of Baltic National Clothes’ was written, and maps were compiled. The atlas was published in Riga in 1985. Before that, Kulikauskienė published a series of articles on clothing, and wrote a manuscript for this monograph. The ethnologists Dr Irma Šidiškienė and Dr Dalia Bernotaitė-Beliauskienė took the initiative and prepared the final version of the manuscript, selected illustrations, and wrote footnotes and explanations.
“魔镜,魔镜,谁是世界上最美丽的人?”关于立陶宛农民男子传统服装的专著的思考评论的作者讨论了Vida kulikauskien立陶宛农民男子的传统服装专著的有争议的方面。首先,他强调了这本书的价值。他指出,这本书是kulikauskienkv对传统农民男性服装的长期研究,以及与之相关的立陶宛民族服装的重建和创造的结果。民族志田野调查始于20世纪60年代,是在准备“波罗的海民族服装历史民族志地图集”的背景下进行的。在此之前,对女性传统服装的研究已经进行了几十年,对她们的地域背景有了完善的描述,与各种零碎的文学文本中描述的男性服装形成了对比。几年后,涵盖立陶宛全境的民族志信息开始出现在kulikauskienkii在各种地方专著中发表的文章中。在用文学材料补充了民族志实地考察期间收集的数据,并在博物馆和档案馆进行了研究之后,库利考斯基恩吉撰写并成功地为她的博士论文辩护。与此同时,为“波罗的海民族服装历史民族志地图集”编写了介绍性文本,并编制了地图。该地图集于1985年在里加出版。在此之前,库利考斯基恩吉发表了一系列关于服装的文章,并为这本专著写了一份手稿。人种学家IrmaŠidiškienė博士和Dalia博士Bernotaitė-Beliauskienė率先准备了手稿的最终版本,选择了插图,并撰写了脚注和解释。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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