Men’s Fashion and Self–Fashioning in The Diary of an English Navy Clerk Samuel Pepys (1660–1669)

A. Stogova
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Abstract

In introducing the concept of self–fashioning, Stephen Greenblatt appealed to the idea of fashion and costume being able to turn the aristocrats of Renaissance England into a work of art. It is easy enough to draw parallels between fashion and self–fashioning when by "fashionable" we mean a type of costume and lifestyle that can become prestigious and popular for some period of time, which can be adopted and then abandoned in favour of a new one, thereby creating a certain public image for oneself. Early modern fashion is associated primarily with the court society. How could an official be fashionable when year after year he was dressed in a plain dark, usually black suit, which was appropriate for a townsman in the second half of the 17th century? This article explores how fashion and men's costume are represented in the diary of Samuel Pepys, a Navy official, who is called a man of fashion, and how, for him, costume could be a tool for shaping his identity.
英国海军职员塞缪尔·佩皮斯(1660-1669)日记中的男性时尚与自我塑造
在引入自我塑造的概念时,斯蒂芬·格林布拉特(Stephen Greenblatt)呼吁时尚和服装能够将英国文艺复兴时期的贵族变成艺术品。我们很容易把时尚和自我塑造联系起来,所谓“时尚”指的是一种服装和生活方式,这种服装和生活方式可以在一段时间内变得享有声望和流行,可以采用,然后放弃,转而采用新的,从而为自己创造某种公众形象。早期现代时尚主要与宫廷社会联系在一起。一位官员年复一年地穿着17世纪下半叶城里人穿的普通的深色(通常是黑色)西装,怎么可能赶时髦呢?本文探讨了被称为时尚之人的海军官员塞缪尔·佩皮斯(Samuel Pepys)的日记如何表现时尚和男性服装,以及对他来说,服装如何成为塑造他身份的工具。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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