2. Water waves

Abstract

Water waves may in fact be the most complex of all; out at sea, the water surface is a summation of an ever-changing mix of waves of many sizes, speeds, and directions, thanks largely to the fact that some waves can last for weeks, and in that time they can travel thousands of kilometres. Until recently, many wave parameters were hard to measure, but accurate measurements can now be made by a number of techniques including dual frequency radar altimetry. ‘Water waves’ describes many different waves and how they build, including capillary waves, breakers, edge waves, harbour resonance, seiches, tides, and tsunamis.