Comprehensive Study of Wave and Lithodynamic Processes in the Coastal Area of the Village of Morskoye (Eastern Crimea)

L. Kharitonova, D. Alekseev, V. Fomin
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Abstract

Wind waves can have a significant impact on the coastal infrastructure. The paper aims at a comprehensive study of regional characteristics of wind waves near the village of Morskoye (south-eastern coast of Crimea), which are necessary to develop a project of reconstruction of the highway adjacent to the coastal area. Space images and cartographic information were used to study the beach dynamics in the studied area. It is shown that before construction of the coast protection structures the beach width in the studied area was 25–30 m, whereas after the construction it narrowed down to 15–25 m. Based on the wind wave reanalysis data obtained using SWAN spectral model and ERA-Interim surface wind fields for 1979–2017, regime characteristics of waves in the coastal zone of Morskoye were calculated. It was found that waves with average periods of 3.0–3.5 s have the maximum recurrence (over 16 %). Wind waves coming from SE-SSE sector have the highest recurrence rate. Estimates were obtained for the extreme characteristics of wind waves that may occur once in a given number of years. The SWASH hydrodynamic model was used to perform mathematical modelling of wave run-up on the coastal area. In their calculations the authors used a regular grid of the coastal relief with high spatial resolution based on the interpolation of topo-geodetic and bathymetric survey results. An incoming wave was given as a soliton of 2.0; 3.0 and 3.4 m high. It was found that with the incoming wave height of 2.0 m, the vertical wave splash in the studied area varies within 1.7–2.2 m. At a height of 3.4 m, the splash reaches 1.8–2.9 m. In this case the beach is flooded completely. During the run-up, wave current velocity amounts up to 5 m/s. Along the lower boundary of the cliff the bottom maximum current velocity reaches 1.5–1.75 m/s. At such velocities near the cliff, the beach consisting of material with the grain size up to 60–90 mm can be eroded.
克里米亚东部莫斯科耶村沿海地区波浪和岩石动力过程的综合研究
风浪会对沿海基础设施产生重大影响。本文旨在全面研究莫斯科耶村(克里米亚东南沿海)附近的风浪区域特征,这是开发毗邻沿海地区的高速公路改建项目所必需的。利用空间影像和地图资料对研究区海滩动态进行了研究。结果表明,研究区海岸防护结构施工前海滩宽度为25 ~ 30 m,施工后海滩宽度缩小至15 ~ 25 m。利用1979-2017年SWAN谱模型和ERA-Interim地面风场的风浪再分析数据,计算了莫斯科滨海地区风浪的状态特征。结果表明,平均周期为3.0 ~ 3.5 s的波具有最大的重现性(超过16%)。SE-SSE扇区的风浪复发率最高。对某一特定年份可能发生一次的风浪的极端特征进行了估计。采用SWASH水动力模型对沿海地区的波浪上升进行了数学模拟。在计算中,作者基于地形测量和测深测量结果的插值,使用了高空间分辨率的海岸地形规则网格。入射波的孤子值为2.0;3.0和3.4米高。研究发现,当入射波高为2.0 m时,研究区垂直波溅水在1.7 ~ 2.2 m范围内变化。当高度为3.4 m时,飞溅高度为1.8-2.9 m。在这种情况下,海滩完全被淹没了。在助跑过程中,海浪流速高达5米/秒。沿崖底边界,底部最大流速可达1.5 ~ 1.75 m/s。在这样的速度下,悬崖附近由60-90毫米粒度的物质组成的海滩可能会被侵蚀。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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