Individual Atmospheres

W. Tullett
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Abstract

The eighteenth century witnessed a number of changes in attitudes to the making and wearing of perfume. Growing unease about perfume’s ability to disguise medical or social disabilities contributed to an attack on its artificiality. The use of strong perfumes was increasingly condemned—not because of their animal ingredients or a fear that they were unhealthy, but because they were an intrusive affront to codes of politeness and mitigated against the ability get along in increasingly anonymous, tightly packed, social spaces. A case study of the eighteenth century’s ultimate perfume addict—the Macaroni—and the pleasure gardens in which he roamed, demonstrates the degree to which perfumery could be construed as an atmospheric aggression against new codes of privacy in public.
个人大气
十八世纪,人们对香水的制作和使用的态度发生了许多变化。人们对香水掩盖医疗或社交障碍的能力日益感到不安,这导致了对其人为性的攻击。使用强烈的香水越来越受到谴责,不是因为它们含有动物成分,也不是因为担心它们不健康,而是因为它们是对礼貌准则的侵犯,而且不利于在日益匿名、拥挤的社交空间中相处。对十八世纪的终极香水迷——通心粉——和他漫步的快乐花园的案例研究表明,香水在多大程度上可以被解释为对公共场合新隐私准则的一种大气侵犯。
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