Costume Design: Ergonomics in Performance Art

A. Cabral, Carlos Manuel Figueiredo
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Abstract

The human body, in contemporary art, is used as a means, as it also is in fashion design practices applied to the art field, that explore the alteration of the anatomic perimeter in its impact on the user’s self-image, expression and transformation. Costumes that defy gesture bear a reflection on dress over body and we question how functionality (or the lack of it) can influence cognition – mostly when we expect a performer to feel and express the same way a character does and when the audience aims to feel the same way the character feels. Does the performer become a more reactive user towards dress under the realm of the action field of performance art, if interacting with a «non-user-friendly» costume? Since costume and body cannot be separated in performance art, we explore ergonomics, regarding both physical and psychological discomfort in improving the acting of a performer, namely when improvising or moving and in the contribution to a more proficient involvement with the audience. A noninterventionist methodology of qualitative basis is used, based on literary research and observation on the impact of different garments on a performer’s work, so as to obtain new indicators for costume design methodology.
服装设计:表演艺术中的人体工程学
在当代艺术中,人体被用作一种手段,就像在应用于艺术领域的时装设计实践中一样,探索解剖周长的变化对使用者自我形象、表达和转化的影响。无视手势的服装反映了服装对身体的影响,我们质疑功能(或缺乏功能)如何影响认知——主要是当我们期望表演者以与角色相同的方式感受和表达时,当观众以与角色相同的方式感受时。如果表演者与“不友好的”服装互动,在行为艺术的行动领域下,表演者是否会成为对服装更被动的用户?由于服装和身体在表演艺术中不能分开,我们探索人体工程学,关于提高表演者表演的身体和心理不适,即在即兴创作或移动时,以及在与观众更熟练参与的贡献。采用定性基础的不干涉主义方法论,通过文献研究和观察不同服装对表演者作品的影响,获得服装设计方法论的新指标。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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