Evaluation of the protective and moisturizing effects of cosmetic formulations for the skin containing extracts with film-forming properties

The development of formulations that provide efficient film-forming properties is important since film formation can protect the skin and hair from the action of external aggressors, such as pollution. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations for the skin containing extracts of Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa, as well as the use of hemisqualane as an alternative to synthetic silicones. The evaluation of efficacy was performed by biophysical techniques and skin imaging techniques, as well as by a sensorial analysis. Sixteen women, aged 18 to 30 years, participated in the study. The results obtained demonstrated that the presence of the extracts in the formulation enabled the formation of a film that helped maintain skin barrier integrity, reduced desquamation, and improved parameters related to hydration. Finally, the study also showed that there were no significant differences between the formulations containing silicones and hemisqualane, which supports the use of hemisqualane as a more sustainable alternative in cosmetic formulations. Keywords: biopolymer, film-forming effect, hemisqualane, clinical efficacy, cosmetics