脆弱的皮肤:以Rhealba®燕麦植物为基础的药妆品对寻常痤疮的益处

G. Fabbrocini, M. S. Aroman, F. Schmitt
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摘要

脆弱的皮肤是一种不平衡的皮肤状态,其特征是与皮肤屏障功能受损有关的抵抗力较低。痤疮皮肤因其自身的病理生理机制而变得脆弱。确实,痤疮皮肤不同于正常皮肤,因为它受较高的经皮水分流失和较低的角质层水合作用的影响。此外,寻常痤疮的特点还在于皮脂质含量的改变和皮脂腺的炎症。这些改变导致过度增生和皮脂腺毛囊内角质形成细胞脱屑增加。因此,角质形成细胞的积累可以阻断毛囊皮脂腺单位,阻止皮脂排出。这导致形成微型粉刺,并进一步痤疮病变。毛囊皮脂腺环境的改变有利于痤疮丙酸杆菌(P. acnes)的增殖。痤疮假单胞杆菌发挥多种促炎活性,通过激活toll样受体2和nlrp3炎性体触发先天免疫系统,导致人单核细胞分泌IL-1β。据报道,Rhealba®燕麦植物提取物(Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique)可恢复脆弱的皮肤,抑制痤疮P.的细菌粘附,并能减轻痤疮的炎症和刺激。此外,药妆品包括Rhealba®燕麦植物提取物和水补偿活性物质,它们可以与抗粉刺剂(羟基酸)相关联,通常可以单独使用或除了痤疮治疗外,以治疗寻常性痤疮。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Fragile skin: Benefit of cosmeceuticals based on Rhealba® oat plantlet in acne vulgaris
Fragile skin is the state of unbalanced skin characterized by lower resistance to aggressions linked with impaired barrier function of skin. Acneic skin becomes fragile due to its own pathophysiological mechanism. Indeed, acneic skin differs from normal skin as it is subject to higher transepidermal water loss and lower stratum corneum hydration. Moreover, acne vulgaris is also characterized by alterations in the lipid content of sebum and an inflammation in the sebaceous gland. These alterations lead to hyperproliferation and to an increased desquamation of keratinocytes within sebaceous follicles. Thus, the accumulation of keratinocytes can block the pilosebaceous unit, preventing sebum drainage. This results in the formation of microcomedones, and further acne lesions. Changes of the pilo-sebaceous environment favour the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes ( P. Acnes ). P. acnes exerts several pro-inflammatory activities which trigger the innate immune system by activating toll-like receptor 2 and NLRP3-inflammasome, resulting in IL-1β secretion in human monocytes. Rhealba ® Oat Plantlets extract (Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique) has been reported to restore fragile skin, inhibit bacterial adhesion of P. Acnes , and to be capable of reducing inflammation and irritation in acne. Moreover, cosmeceuticals including Rhealba ® Oat Plantlets extract and hydro-compensating actives, which can be associated with anti-comedogenic agents (hydroxyl acids), may be usually used stand-alone or in addition to acne treatments in order to treat acne vulgaris.
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