黑海海岸带表面波的偏度和峰度

IF 0.7 Q4 OCEANOGRAPHY
A. Zapevalov, A. Garmashov
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引用次数: 4

摘要

意图本研究的目的是分析表征海面高程分布与高斯分布偏差的统计矩的可变性。方法和结果。在克里米亚南部海岸附近黑海的固定海洋平台上对海浪特征进行了实地研究。使用了在夏季和冬季获得的数据。分别计算了风浪和涌浪的统计力矩。测量是在广泛的气象条件和波浪参数(风速从0到26 m/s,波浪年龄从0到5.2,陡度从0.005到0.095)下进行的。对于风浪,与波浪陡度和年龄的偏斜度相关系数分别为0.46和0.38。峰度与这些参数的相关系数很小(0.09和0.07),但置信水平为99.8%——显著。对于涌浪,相关系数低1.5–2.0倍。结论。三阶及更高阶海面高程的统计矩是波场非线性的指标,在解决广泛的应用和基础问题时应考虑到这一点。陡度和波龄并不能明确地描述表面高程分布与高斯分布的偏差。在这些参数的固定值下,观察到表面高程的偏度和峰度有很大的分散。这大大限制了在工程计算中应用基于小参数(陡度)波浪剖面扩展的非线性波浪模型的可能性。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Skewness and Kurtosis of the Surface Wave in the Coastal Zone of the Black Sea
Purpose. The aim of the study is to analyze variability of the statistical moments characterizing deviations of the sea surface elevation distributions from the Gaussian. Methods and Results. Field studies of the sea waves’ characteristics were carried out from the stationary oceanographic platform located in the Black Sea near the Southern coast of Crimea. The data obtained both in summer and winter, were used. The statistical moments were calculated separately for wind waves and swell. The measurements were performed in a wide range of meteorological conditions and wave parameters (wind speed varied from 0 to 26 m/s, wave age – from 0 to 5.2 and steepness – from 0.005 to 0.095). For wind waves, the coefficients of skewness correlation with the waves’ steepness and age were equal to 0.46 and 0.38. The kurtosis correlation coefficients with these parameters were small (0.09 and 0.07), but with the confidence level 99.8% – significant. For swell, the correlation coefficients were 1.5 – 2.0 times lower. Conclusions. The statistical moments of the sea surface elevations of the third and higher orders are the indicators of the wave field nonlinearity, which should be taken into account when solving a wide range of the applied and fundamental problems. The deviations of the surface elevation distributions from the Gaussian one are not described unambiguously by the steepness and wave age. At the fixed values of these parameters, a large scatter in the skewness and kurtosis of the surface elevations is observed. This imposes significant limitations on the possibility of applying the nonlinear wave models based on the wave profile expansion by small parameter (steepness) degrees, in engineering calculations.
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来源期刊
Physical Oceanography
Physical Oceanography OCEANOGRAPHY-
CiteScore
1.80
自引率
25.00%
发文量
8
审稿时长
24 weeks
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