凝视看不见的男人：在威斯敏斯特男装档案馆引入画廊凝视，以确定（在）可见性在旁观者的眼中

IF 0.9 3区社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY

Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2021-12-16 DOI:10.1177/13591835211066821

Joshua M. Bluteau

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引用次数: 1

摘要

位于威斯敏斯特大学的威斯敏斯特男装档案馆于2019年举办了一场名为“隐形人”的展览。本次展览的目的是“照亮”男性，或者更准确地说是迄今为止一直被学术界和服装展览忽视的男装（Groves和Sprecher，2019）。本文借鉴了在此次展览中进行的研究，就男装在画廊空间内外的性质提出了人类学问题。从根本上说，这将质疑男装的隐形本质，以及这种隐形性是否真的存在。为了实现这一点，本文将提出一种关于画廊或展览空间中存在的凝视的新理论——画廊凝视——并用它来激发对所呈现的民族志材料的分析。这篇文章承认了智力、符号学和符号不可见性之间的区别，但提出了一种不同的方法，主张进步程度的可见性。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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Gazing on invisible men: Introducing the gallery gaze to establish that (in)visibility is in the eye of the beholder at Westminster Menswear Archive

The Westminster Menswear Archive, housed at the University of Westminster held an exhibition in 2019 entitled ‘Invisible Men’. The purpose of this show was to “shine a light” on men, or more accurately menswear which had been hitherto neglected by scholarship and exhibitions featuring dress (Groves and Sprecher, 2019). This article draws on research conducted at this exhibition to ask anthropological questions as to the nature of menswear both in the gallery space and beyond. Fundamentally this will question the invisible nature of menswear and whether such invisibility really exists. In order to accomplish this, this article will suggest a new theory of the gaze that exists in the gallery or exhibition space – the gallery gaze – and use it to provoke analysis of the ethnographic material presented. This article acknowledges a distinction between intellectual, semiotic and symbolic invisibility but suggests a different approach, arguing for an (in)visibility of progressive degrees.

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来源期刊

Journal of Material Culture Multiple-

CiteScore

1.80

自引率

0.00%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal of Material Culture is an interdisciplinary journal designed to cater for the increasing interest in material culture studies. It is concerned with the relationship between artefacts and social relations irrespective of time and place and aims to systematically explore the linkage between the construction of social identities and the production and use of culture. The Journal of Material Culture transcends traditional disciplinary and cultural boundaries drawing on a wide range of disciplines including anthropology, archaeology, design studies, history, human geography, museology and ethnography.