RP-18 TLC and Computational Descriptors of Skin Permeability of Sunscreens.

The relationships between the reversed-phase thin layer chromatographic retention parameters obtained on octadecyl-modified silica (RP-18) sorbent for mobile phases containing water and one of six water-miscible organic modifiers (acetone, methanol, acetonitrile, tetrahydrofurane, N,N-dimethylformamide, 1,4-dioxane) and skin permeability coefficients were studied for a group of 21 cosmetic raw materials, mainly organic sunscreens and preservatives. The correlations between the skin permeability coefficients log Kd calculated in silico using EpiSuite software and the RP-18 thin layer chromatographic retention parameters are mostly linear, especially for compounds of lower-to-medium lipophilicity. It was established that skin permeability coefficient models based on retention parameters collected for mobile phases containing acetone or dioxane (75% v/v), proposed for structurally unrelated cosmetic raw materials are also applicable to other actives, as shown using a test set of compounds whose in vivo log Kd data are available. Skin permeability models developed in this study have the benefit of being based on easily obtained, chromatographic descriptors and their applicability extends beyond cosmetic chemistry.