如何对抗急性晒伤?当前的皮肤护理策略。

IF 2.7 3区 化学 Q3 BIOCHEMISTRY & MOLECULAR BIOLOGY
Ana Jesus, Emília Sousa, Honorina Cidade, Maria T Cruz, Isabel F Almeida
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引用次数: 0

摘要

过度暴露在阳光下会造成皮肤光损伤,如晒伤、干燥、皱纹、色素沉着、免疫抑制和皮肤过敏反应。使用晒后产品是减少皮肤急性光损伤的明显症状和体征的有效策略。为了揭示能够抵消急性日光损伤的活性成分,这项研究重点关注晒后产品市场的特征。对目前在葡萄牙销售的 41 个国际品牌的 84 种晒后产品配方进行了分析,以了解产品标签上描述的成分,确定能够减轻日晒引起的影响的天然和合成/半合成成分。大多数晒后配方都含有从陆地和海洋来源提取的成分(> 80%)。此外,还对这些化合物进行了深入研究,揭示了晒后产品中使用最多的天然和半合成/合成成分及其作用机制。对科学数据进行了批判性评估,旨在强调能够减轻皮肤光损伤的成分的科学证据。对氨基酸、肽和巴西莓提取物进行了体内功效测试。不过,在进行体内、体外和/或临床研究之前,所有成分都通过体外研究进行了初步筛选分析。总之,本研究概述了商用晒后产品中活性成分的使用情况,以便更好地了解在化妆品配方中使用这些成分的好处,并确定创新的机会。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies.

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.

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来源期刊
Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences
Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences 生物-生化与分子生物学
CiteScore
5.60
自引率
6.50%
发文量
201
审稿时长
2.3 months
期刊介绍: A society-owned journal publishing high quality research on all aspects of photochemistry and photobiology.
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