Sara Faggian, Nicola Borasio, Marco Vecchiato, Hannes Gatterer, Martin Burtscher, Francesca Battista, Hannes Brunner, Giulia Quinto, Federica Duregon, Andrea Ermolao, Daniel Neunhaeuserer
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引用次数: 0
摘要
背景：运动攀岩在普通人群和运动员中都变得异常流行。关于基于证据的特定运动成绩评估，目前尚无共识；因此，本系统综述旨在通过比较不同水平的攀岩者，分析运动攀岩成绩的决定因素和评估方法：方法：检索了截至 2022 年 12 月 20 日的 PubMed、Scopus 和 Web of Science。结果：共收录了 74 项研究：结果：最终纳入了 74 项研究。人们提出了各种方法来评估运动攀岩成绩的决定因素。与一般功能测试相比，针对攀岩的评估能够区分不同水平的攀岩者。攀岩专项心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和力量的测试有效性很高；同样，除心肺耐力外，可靠性也很好。攀岩专项柔韧性评估的信度较高，但效度一般，而平衡能力的效度较低。在人体测量特征方面，发现了相当多相互矛盾的证据：本分析认为，心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和力量是运动攀岩成绩的决定因素。相比之下，平衡性、柔韧性和人体测量特征的作用似乎较小。本综述还提出了一套以证据为基础的功能性运动攀岩测试，用于评估成绩的决定因素，其中包括已被确认为有效、可靠和可行的测试。虽然运动员和教练员应依赖循证和标准化的评估方法，但研究人员可设计特定的大规模试验，作为提供额外、同质和可比数据的资源，以提高这一流行运动学科的科学依据和专业水平。
Sport climbing performance determinants and functional testing methods: A systematic review.
Background: Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review is aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels.
Methods: PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20, 2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible.
Results: 74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics.
Conclusion: The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.
期刊介绍：
The Journal of Sport and Health Science (JSHS) is an international, multidisciplinary journal that aims to advance the fields of sport, exercise, physical activity, and health sciences. Published by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of Shanghai University of Sport, JSHS is dedicated to promoting original and impactful research, as well as topical reviews, editorials, opinions, and commentary papers.
With a focus on physical and mental health, injury and disease prevention, traditional Chinese exercise, and human performance, JSHS offers a platform for scholars and researchers to share their findings and contribute to the advancement of these fields. Our journal is peer-reviewed, ensuring that all published works meet the highest academic standards.
Supported by a carefully selected international editorial board, JSHS upholds impeccable integrity and provides an efficient publication platform. We invite submissions from scholars and researchers worldwide, and we are committed to disseminating insightful and influential research in the field of sport and health science.
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