针织仿梭织衬衫面料的机械性能和舒适性实验研究

Kongwei Zhao, S. Cao, Guangbiao Xu
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摘要

摘要 纬编衬衫面料具有良好的弹性和舒适性,但很难达到梭织衬衫的成型性。本研究采用 30D XLANCE® 弹性纤维和 30D 莱卡® 弹性纤维,配以 40S 棉和 75D/36F 吸湿快干涤纶 DTY,在 32 针/25.4 毫米单面圆机上开发出梭织衬衫面料。结果表明,经过充分热定型处理的 30D XLANCE® 针织衬衫面料的机械性能接近标准机织物,优于 30D Lycra® 和未经充分热定型处理的 30D XLANCE® 面料。XLANCE® 织物的抗紫外线性能明显优于莱卡® 织物。同时,经过热定型处理后的 XLANCE® 织物仍然保持着优异的弹性和回弹性、透气性、吸湿性和快干性能,水洗后的尺寸稳定性也非常好。此外,与氨纶相比,XLANCE® 织物的热定型温度更低,有利于降低能耗和碳排放。可以说,XLANCE® 弹性纤维是针织梭织产品的理想原料。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
An experimental study of mechanical properties and comfortability of knitted imitation woven shirt fabrics
Abstract The weft knitted shirt fabric has good elasticity and comfortability, but it is difficult to achieve the formability of woven shirts. In this study, 30D XLANCE® elastic fibers and 30D Lycra® elastic fibers were used, which paired with 40S cotton and 75D/36F moisture-absorbing and quick-drying polyester DTY to develop the woven shirt fabrics on a 32 needle/25.4 mm single-sided circular machine. The results indicate that the 30D XLANCE® knitted shirt fabric has undergone sufficient heat setting treatment, and its mechanical properties are close to those of the standard woven fabric, superior to 30D Lycra® and 30D XLANCE® without sufficient heat setting treatment fabrics. The ultraviolet resistance behavior of XLANCE® fabrics is significantly better than that of Lycra® fabrics. Meanwhile, the XLANCE® fabrics after heat setting still maintain the excellent elasticity and resilience, breathability, moisture absorption, and quick drying performance, and the dimensional stability after washing is also very good. In addition, compared with spandex, XLANCE® fabrics have the lower heat setting temperature, which is beneficial for reducing energy consumption and carbon emissions. It can be considered that XLANCE® elastic fibers are the ideal raw materials for the knitted woven products.
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