1990 年代时尚界的 DIY 实践:亚历山大-麦昆早年(1992-1996 年)笔记

Henrique Grimaldi Figueredo
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摘要

亚历山大-麦昆(1969-2010 年)无疑是 20 世纪末 21 世纪初最伟大的时装设计师之一。麦昆是一位作家级作品的创作者,已成为众多研究者的研究对象。在本文中,我们将运用社会学方法,分析这位设计师的早期创作阶段,特别是他在 1992 年至 1996 年期间的作品。通过反思他的一些美学成果,本文试图描述 DIY 在他的作品中是如何作为一种以社会、政治和经济问题为条件的认识论解决方案出现的。考虑到使用 DIY 所带来的收益,以及当他的作品被时尚主流所吸收时所做出的让步,麦昆将被视为一个启发式的例子,帮助我们描述和定性更复杂的当代现象,如时尚系统的变化和资本主义的新阶段。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
DIY practices in 1990s fashion: Notes from Alexander McQueen's early years (1992–1996)
Alexander McQueen (1969–2010) was certainly one of the greatest fashion designers of the late 20th and early 21st century. Creator of an authorial work McQueen has become the subject of study of numerous researchers. In this article, using a sociological approach, we’ll analyze the designer's early creative phase, specifically his production between the years 1992 and 1996. Reflecting on some of his esthetic results, this article seeks to characterize how DIY appears in his work as a type of epistemological solution conditioned to social, political, and economic issues. Thinking about the gains that come from using DIY as well as the concessions that are made when his work is absorbed into the fashion mainstream, McQueen will be taken as a heuristic example that helps us describe and qualify even more complex phenomena of contemporaneity as the change in the fashion system and the new phases of capitalism.
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