The 20th century and its new colours: Investigating the molecular structures of historical synthetic dyes using Raman spectroscopy

Characterising synthetic dyes on heritage textiles represents a relatively recent research frontier, which aims to obtain new information about the evolution of textile manufacturing and industrial chemistry. Whilst spectral enhancement or amplification methods are often considered a requirement for the Raman analysis of textile dyes, this work highlights the potential of standard Raman spectroscopy for the non-invasive analysis of synthetically dyed fibres. In this research, Raman spectroscopy was used for the chemical characterisation of early 20th century synthetic dyes, in both powder form and on dyed fibres. The dyes were produced by the Italian company Azienda Coloranti Nazionali e Affini (ACNA) and housed in the Sapienza University Museum of Chemistry. The investigation first employed literature research into the ACNA's commercial nomenclature. This information was used to hypothesise likely molecular structures of the dyes, pointing towards the azo dye class. The application of Raman spectroscopy confirmed these hypotheses and the high-quality spectra collected provided structural information about the dye molecules. Spectral features of azo-groups, aromatic moieties, and substituents were observable in spectra. Comparison with a Raman spectrum of wool allowed confident dye signal attribution, and some spectra displayed features linked to changes in the fibre during the dyeing process. Combining literature research and Raman vibrational information proved a powerful non-invasive approach for the characterisation of synthetic dyes, allowing molecular identification of some colorants and structural information for most. Standard Raman spectroscopy may provide a widely applicable, non-invasive method for acquiring information about synthetically dyed historical and artistic textiles in future research.