保护表演,表演保护:金·卡戴珊和玛丽莲·梦露

IF 0.8 4区 化学 0 ARCHAEOLOGY
Jules Pelta Feldman
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引用次数: 0

摘要

2022年5月2日之后,遗产保护一度成为名人八卦界的热门话题。那天晚上,真人秀明星、企业家金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)在大都会艺术博物馆(Metropolitan Museum of Art)的年度服装学院庆典上,穿着一件有60年历史的玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)的连衣裙。穿着梦露的礼服,卡戴珊试图传达这位上世纪中叶明星的魅力和名人气质。她还引起了博物馆专业人士的愤怒,他们认为她选择穿着一件脆弱的历史服装是对保护伦理的公然违反。然而,越来越多的保护学科已经认识到,一个物体的“完整性”并不仅仅取决于它的物理材料——通过对当代艺术和非物质文化遗产保护的研究,行为保护的新兴话语强调了我所说的“表演物体”的活跃生命,而不是它们的物理形式和静态外观。在这里,我认为卡戴珊穿梦露的裙子可以被理解为一种保守的形式——也许不是裙子本身,而是裙子作为一个组成部分的表现,如果没有这种表现,我认为裙子就没有什么意义了。为了提出这一论点,我还将借鉴保护土著遗产的创新方法,这些方法认识到使过去的物体恢复活力的保护价值。我将梦露的服装作为一种“表演对象”,一种与运动中的身体有着千丝万缕联系的物品,努力展示表演本身是如何保存过去的。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Conserving Performance, Performing Conservation: Kim Kardashian x Marilyn Monroe
After May 2, 2022, heritage conservation briefly became a hot topic in the world of celebrity gossip. That evening, Kim Kardashian, a reality TV star and entrepreneur, wore a 60-year-old dress that had belonged to Marilyn Monroe to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s annual Costume Institute Gala. In wearing Monroe’s dress, Kardashian sought to channel the glamor and celebrity of the mid-century star. She also summoned the ire of museum professionals, who considered her choice to wear a fragile historical garment a flagrant violation of conservation ethics. Yet increasingly, the discipline of conservation has come to recognize that an object’s ‘integrity’ does not rest solely in its physical materials – and the emerging discourse of performance conservation, informed by research into the conservation of contemporary art as well as intangible cultural heritage, emphasizes the active lives of what I call ‘performative objects’ over their physical form and static appearance. Here, I posit that Kardashian’s wearing of Monroe’s dress may be understood as a form of conservation – perhaps not of the dress itself, but of the performance of which that dress was an integral part, and without which, I argue, the dress has little significance. To make this argument, I will also draw on innovative approaches to the conservation of Indigenous heritage that recognize the preservation value of reanimating objects from the past. Establishing Monroe’s dress as a ‘performative object,’ an item inextricably linked to the body in motion, I endeavor to show how performance itself preserves the past.
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来源期刊
Studies in Conservation
Studies in Conservation 化学-分析化学
CiteScore
1.80
自引率
12.50%
发文量
73
审稿时长
>12 weeks
期刊介绍: Studies in Conservation is the premier international peer-reviewed journal for the conservation of historic and artistic works. The intended readership includes the conservation professional in the broadest sense of the term: practising conservators of all types of object, conservation, heritage and museum scientists, collection or conservation managers, teachers and students of conservation, and academic researchers in the subject areas of arts, archaeology, the built heritage, materials history, art technological research and material culture. Studies in Conservation publishes original work on a range of subjects including, but not limited to, examination methods for works of art, new research in the analysis of artistic materials, mechanisms of deterioration, advances in conservation practice, novel methods of treatment, conservation issues in display and storage, preventive conservation, issues of collection care, conservation history and ethics, and the history of materials and technological processes. Scientific content is not necessary, and the editors encourage the submission of practical articles, review papers, position papers on best practice and the philosophy and ethics of collecting and preservation, to help maintain the traditional balance of the journal. Whatever the subject matter, accounts of routine procedures are not accepted, except where these lead to results that are sufficiently novel and/or significant to be of general interest.
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