寻找制度:欧洲服装价值链的升级、私人合规和尽职调查

3区 社会学 Q1 Business, Management and Accounting
Transfer Pub Date : 2023-09-29 DOI:10.1177/10242589231194313
Nikolaus Hammer
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引用次数: 2

摘要

本文认为,改善工作条件的关键途径——一方面是价值链整合,另一方面是领导公司的合规流程——并没有导致欧洲服装行业的改善。证据来自主要服装生产国的经济和社会上升/下降轨迹,以及关于联合王国社会审计和劳动力市场执法的案例研究。两者都表明,防止供应链中劳动力剥削的制度在很大程度上是无效的。制度试验混合了硬法和软法以及公共和私人治理要素,强调了牵头公司的作用,但继续将民间社会行为者排除在外。有人认为,作为许多机构实验核心的人权尽职调查,借鉴了有缺陷的私人合规模式,而不是建立可能导致更好替代方案的工人驱动因素。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Searching for institutions: upgrading, private compliance, and due diligence in European apparel value chains
This article argues that key avenues to improve working conditions – value chain integration, on the one hand, and lead firms’ compliance processes, on the other – have not resulted in improvements in the European apparel industry. Evidence is drawn from economic and social up-/downgrading trajectories in major apparel producing countries as well as a case study on social audits and labour market enforcement in the United Kingdom. Both suggest that institutions to prevent labour exploitation in supply chains have largely been ineffective. Institutional experimentation, which has been hybrid in combining hard and soft law as well as public and private governance elements, underlined the role of lead firms but continued to exclude civil society actors. It is argued that human rights due diligence, at the heart of many institutional experiments, draws on a deficient private compliance model, rather than building in worker-driven elements that could lead towards a better alternative.
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来源期刊
Transfer
Transfer Business, Management and Accounting-Industrial Relations
CiteScore
0.20
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审稿时长
20 weeks
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