Statistical characteristics of sea surface waves derived from buoy measurements in the eastern Guangdong offshore water

IF 2.1 4区 地球科学 Q2 MARINE & FRESHWATER BIOLOGY
Tongmu Liu , Jianxing Yu , Yang Yu , Hua Huang , Xinwen Zhang , Baocheng Zhou
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

The wave characteristics of the eastern Guangdong offshore water were quantified based on 1-year wave observations at a water depth of 60 m. This study statistically analyzed the observed wave characteristics and quantified the variations of the wave parameters and spectrum due to Super Typhoon Mangkhut. Results showed that the dominant and strong wave directions in the northeastern South China Sea were north-eastern and eastern, respectively. The average significant wave height was in the range of 0.7–2.4 m. During Super Typhoon Mangkhut, the maximum wave height and period were 11.3 m and 10–12 s, respectively, and peak spectral density mainly varied between 0.06 and 0.1 Hz. Results of this study can provide a basis for offshore engineering design and are of great significance for marine forecasting and disaster prevention and reduction.

粤东近海浮标测量海面波浪的统计特征
根据1年60 m水深的波浪观测资料,定量分析了粤东近海水域的波浪特征。本研究统计分析了台风“山竹”造成的波浪特征,并量化了波浪参数和频谱的变化。结果表明:南海东北部的优势波方向为东北,强波方向为东部;平均有效波高在0.7 ~ 2.4 m之间。超强台风“山竹”期间,最大波高11.3 m,最大周期10 ~ 12 s,峰值谱密度主要在0.06 ~ 0.1 Hz之间变化。研究结果可为海洋工程设计提供依据,对海洋预报和防灾减灾具有重要意义。
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来源期刊
Journal of Sea Research
Journal of Sea Research 地学-海洋学
CiteScore
3.20
自引率
5.00%
发文量
86
审稿时长
6-12 weeks
期刊介绍: The Journal of Sea Research is an international and multidisciplinary periodical on marine research, with an emphasis on the functioning of marine ecosystems in coastal and shelf seas, including intertidal, estuarine and brackish environments. As several subdisciplines add to this aim, manuscripts are welcome from the fields of marine biology, marine chemistry, marine sedimentology and physical oceanography, provided they add to the understanding of ecosystem processes.
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