In-vivo Studies of Cosmetics with Ultraviolet Light Filter and Synergistic Antioxidant Care

Joanna Igielska-Kalwat
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Abstract

The natural process of skin melanogenesis is an evolutionarily valuable mechanism that protects the human body against excessive exposure to solar radiation. Cosmetics with a filter are a very important invention of the cosmetics industry, which enable protection of the skin against excessive exposure to solar radiation, thanks to which people with dysfunction of natural photochromia or people traveling to distant parts of the world can support it by protecting the body against the destructive effects of UV radiation. Cosmetics with a filter effectively protect against premature photo-aging and the formation of skin cancer. With the development of cosmetic formula technology, the discovery of new safe sunscreen substances and the evolution of marketing labels declaring the degree of photoprotection, the role of solar radiation, in which we have evolved since the emergence of Homo sapiens, began to be demonized. Taking into account the benefits of additional photoprotection provided by cosmetics with a high SPF factor, the properties and secondary effects of a cosmetic emulsion having direct contact with the hydrolipid barrier and the possibility of interfering with the physiology of the epidermis should also be taken into account. Both the benefits and side effects caused by excessive application should be balanced in terms of interference with the pH value of the epidermis and the role of the natural melanogenesis process as an essential phenomenon of skin photoprotection. When developing the method of use of a given cosmetic with a filter, you should also take into account the SPF factor and its protection range, the pH value of the emulsion and additional functions – antioxidant. Generalizing the method of use and frequency of application of photoprotective cosmetics, without personalizing the recommendations, seems to be an abuse in today’s cosmetic product technology to the detriment of the cosmetics industry and dermatology. To sum up, the authors wanted to present both the advantages and disadvantages of excessive use of creams containing filters.
具有紫外线过滤功能和协同抗氧化护理功能的化妆品的体内研究
皮肤黑色素的自然生成过程是一种很有价值的进化机制,它能保护人体免受过度的太阳辐射。带滤光片的化妆品是化妆品行业的一项重要发明,它可以保护皮肤免受过量太阳辐射的伤害,有天然光色素功能障碍的人或到世界遥远地区旅行的人可以借助它保护身体免受紫外线辐射的破坏。带有过滤功能的化妆品可以有效防止过早的光老化和皮肤癌的形成。随着化妆品配方技术的发展、新型安全防晒物质的发现以及宣称防晒程度的营销标签的演变,太阳辐射的作用开始被妖魔化。考虑到 SPF 系数高的化妆品能提供额外的光保护,还应考虑到直接接触水脂屏障的化妆品乳液的特性和副作用,以及干扰表皮生理机能的可能性。过量使用所带来的益处和副作用应在对表皮 pH 值的干扰和天然黑色素生成过程作为皮肤光保护的基本现象所起的作用之间取得平衡。在制定某种带滤镜化妆品的使用方法时,还应考虑到 SPF 值及其保护范围、乳液的 pH 值和附加功能--抗氧化剂。一概而论防晒化妆品的使用方法和使用频率,而不提出个性化建议,似乎是当今化妆品技术的一种滥用,不利于化妆品行业和皮肤病学的发展。总之,作者希望说明过度使用含有滤光剂的面霜的利弊。
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