Morphodynamics of two Mediterranean microtidal beaches presenting permanent megacusps under the influence of waves and strong offshore winds

Abstract

This study focuses on four years of survey of two low-microtidal emerged beaches (average tidal range ≈ 0.3 m), presenting permanent megacusps on the French Mediterranean coast. These beaches are representative of the southern part of the Gulf of Lion (45 km of coast): the Leucate beach backed by a small dune and the La Franqui beach backed by a small lagoon. An analysis of the hydrodynamic and meteorological forcing along with morphological changes allows to define the key parameters controlling the system. These results are used to develop a conceptual model composed of five main situations and then compare it to the microtidal literature. Dominant offshore winds can reach speeds of up to 20 m s⁻¹ (Gusts up to 30 m s⁻¹) and have an erosive action on the backshore and produce advance of the shoreline of a few metres. This shoreline advance is mainly concentrated on the horns when it is concomitant with small fair-weather waves. Waves of moderate to high intensity (storms) lead to strong erosion and steepening of the beach face, as well as the migration or construction of a new higher berm located landward and associated with sediment deposition on the upper beach. The low tidal range may also allow the high run-up level to stabilise for a longer period of time in a high elevation on the backshore. The alternation of storm episodes and offshore wind periods could control the relative stability of the emerged beach.