Hand-Made Jewelry in the Age of Digital Technology

Livia Tenuta, Alba Cappellieri, Susanna Testa, Beatrice Rossato, F. Moreira da Silva
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Abstract

People have always been central players in the world of jewelry. Not only as artisans who have given life to masterpieces of inestimable material and creative value, but also as users who have used jewelry as a means of expression, as a guardian of immaterial values or as a vehicle for messages. Over time, the human being has accepted the support of the machine in the productive, creative, and communicative processes, and today the world of jewelry swings between handmade and machine-made. Digital technology is increasingly affecting the production processes, the product itself, and the services connected to it. First, the paper aims to highlight the complexity in defining the role of luxury and handmade associated with the world of jewelry. Secondly, it aims to analyze the handmade relationship in the world of jewelry as a driving force for creating new values, of which the designer is the mediator. How the machine-made paradigm fits into the design, production, or communication of jewelry is described with contextual research from the second half of the last century until today, outlining the best examples in Italy and abroad. Then, an academic workshop is presented to investigate better the role of design in managing craftsmanship combined with new emerging technologies. The research on the context brings out the different declinations that the hand-machine relationship brings out in the world of jewelry. Then, the results obtained involve the analysis of the projects developed during the workshop, mediated through the relationship between hand and machine, underlining the designer's role. Innovation and technology, together with design methodology, redefine the stylistic features but also - and above all - deconstructs the classic concept of preciousness, resulting in the modification of the perception of the value. This implies a redefinition of the traditional parameters of luxury and the role of the human being, and a different way of designing its products. Finally, the paper analyzes the jewelry field and the designer's ability to develop the relationship between craftsmanship and new technologies, underlining the new value systems that this relationship can create.
数字技术时代的手工珠宝
人们一直是珠宝世界的核心角色。不仅作为工匠赋予了不可估量的物质和创造价值的杰作生命,而且作为用户将珠宝作为一种表达手段,作为非物质价值的守护者或作为信息的载体。随着时间的推移,人类已经接受了机器在生产、创造和交流过程中的支持,今天的珠宝世界在手工和机器制造之间摇摆。数字技术正日益影响着生产过程、产品本身以及与之相关的服务。首先,本文旨在强调在定义与珠宝世界相关的奢侈品和手工制作的角色时的复杂性。其次,分析珠宝世界中的手工关系作为创造新价值的动力,而设计师是其中的中介。从上个世纪下半叶到今天,通过上下文研究描述了机器制造范式如何适应珠宝的设计、生产或传播,概述了意大利和国外的最佳范例。然后,提出了一个学术研讨会,以更好地探讨设计在结合新兴技术管理工艺中的作用。对语境的研究揭示了手-机关系在珠宝世界中所带来的不同衰落。然后,获得的结果涉及对研讨会期间开发的项目的分析,通过手和机器之间的关系进行调解,强调设计师的角色。创新和技术与设计方法一起重新定义了风格特征,但也-最重要的是-解构了经典的珍贵概念,从而改变了对价值的感知。这意味着对奢侈品的传统参数和人类角色的重新定义,以及设计其产品的不同方式。最后,本文分析了珠宝领域和设计师发展工艺与新技术之间关系的能力,强调了这种关系所能创造的新的价值体系。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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